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#16
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That is a neat set. I had a 1952 17" GE that required very little work to get going. You're lucky those tubes were bad or else the HV would have fired up before it should have. That set is built like a tank . I think GE started using PC boards in '56 or so, very un-tank like.
That two-tap transformer is also a great feature, especially since everybody is running at 120+ these days. Last edited by DavGoodlin; 04-23-2012 at 09:52 AM. |
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#17
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SOMETHING bad happened if the damper, horizontal output, AND vertical output are all cracked. When the getter flash goes white, it usually means that air got into the tube.
Best of luck with them. Even with the new tubes, I wouldn't try running it without new capacitors. |
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#18
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The glass on one of them is broken.. Looks like it was something more physical..
Last edited by tvcollector; 04-23-2012 at 11:16 AM. |
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#19
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That set uses dip soldering. Check the board in the HV compartment. I saw a few that were arc damaged.
PS, the tubes mentioned in an earlier post are different variations of the same tube. The GTA or GTB, being the latest version. |
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#20
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Looks like a "DeLuxe" chassis, and I really like the way the tube connections are brought to the top of the chassis for ease of voltage checks, etc. I've been looking at some GE schematics lately, and have found an appreciation of some of their circuit designs, and chassis layouts. I have only two Portacolors, and a small 11 inch B/W "Personal Portable" that needs a CRT. Think I'll look for an older GE to "play" with.
![]() Happy for your find !! best of luck with it !
__________________
stromberg6 |
| Audiokarma |
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#21
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Replaced the horizontal out and the damper tube, got a raster now, a nice horizontal line, until my vertical out tube arrives.. Looks like this thing is going to run without any maintenance..
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#22
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Dont run it with that line. You can easily burn a line in the phosphors. If you insist on running it, and I would, turn the brightness way down.
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#23
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Quote:
I'd personally suggest you pull the chassis and check caps for leakage, as something roasted those tubes and you don't want to roast your new ones. My first suspect would be that the grid coupling capacitor to the vertical output is leaking and cause the output tube to pull too much current and that took out the damper and horiz output. If any tube plates - rectifier, horiz output or vertical output, start to glow red, kill the power immediately and find out why. Jas. Last edited by earlyfilm; 04-25-2012 at 08:32 PM. Reason: typo |
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#24
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Ge 1954
I just had a GE 21C243 "delivered"
![]() The CRT is a Sylvania 21ZP4 that tests pretty weak. TVcollector, your chassis looks similar to mine. Once I get it safe to power up, I will post in a new thread. GE-1.jpgGE-2.jpg |
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#25
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Quote:
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| Audiokarma |
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#26
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I grew up with a GE 21" LowBoy style set with a coffee can HV cage! When I was 3-4 years old, I would stand behind the TV and look through the holes in the back and watch them work. I also developed a liking for the smell of tube electronics making heat.
I have pictures of my set in the family album. I'll see about scanning them. |
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#27
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Quote:
I'm anxious to see yours.. Looks like a console version.. |
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