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  #16  
Old 06-14-2011, 09:41 PM
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Maybe pushing that bottom button on the left steps the channel up while the button on the right steps the power/volume control?
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  #17  
Old 06-14-2011, 10:01 PM
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Tom,

I have a spare 6LU8 (vert osc/output) tube you can have, it's sitting in that box you accidentally kicked over in my spare bedroom. lol

As for the sparks, it could be a bad regulator like the Sylvania set I gave my brother (it had gone to air), or it might be a bad rectifier or decomposed HV wiring. Just run it with the back off, and look for trouble.

BTW: another member will be stopping by on Sunday to have a look at the sets, so make sure you get here early! He said he wants the RCA B&W set, but he may be hungry for more...
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  #18  
Old 06-15-2011, 01:06 AM
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Last edited by andy; 11-18-2021 at 05:34 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-15-2011, 02:02 AM
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All the tubes in the horizontal test good(I forgot to check the focus rect. though) with the regulator peging my tester.
Quote:
miniman82 Tom,

I have a spare 6LU8 (vert osc/output) tube you can have, it's sitting in that box you accidentally kicked over in my spare bedroom. lol

As for the sparks, it could be a bad regulator like the Sylvania set I gave my brother (it had gone to air), or it might be a bad rectifier or decomposed HV wiring. Just run it with the back off, and look for trouble.

BTW: another member will be stopping by on Sunday to have a look at the sets, so make sure you get here early! He said he wants the RCA B&W set, but he may be hungry for more...
Sorry about the box. You think with all the cramped anti-Q shops i've been in since I was a little kid(I've done worse than that in my early days) that I'd learn to watch where I step!

The sparks were like on the out side of the HV cage door and only happened twice in rapid succession.

If he gets the RCA he will be saveing me from my self, but fathers day circumstances may have me there on a different day. I'll give ya a day of twos notice once my scheduel is set.

The vert is working, but I'll probably get that spare tube while I'm there(just to be safe).

Bgadow, I think I'll take you up on your offer, there is a local college that also has it, but I have to photocopy it, and that is not my favorite way to get the sam's.

Tom C.
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  #20  
Old 06-15-2011, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
The sparks were like on the out side of the HV cage door and only happened twice in rapid succession.

Hmm, sounds like a wire lead might be touching something it's not supposed to. That, or a failed component of some sort. It's also possible it's nothing at all, of course. First time I started the CTC-7 and the 21-CT-55, I heard a few loud snaps but it never happened again. I think sometimes there are paths to ground over dust or other crap that gets blasted away when HV comes up. Best thing you can do is watch for it happening, and trace it to it's source.
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  #21  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:40 AM
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Last edited by andy; 11-18-2021 at 05:34 PM.
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  #22  
Old 06-15-2011, 01:48 PM
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The HV rect. tested good, but perhaps it folds under real world opperating conditions. I believe that I have many new and used spares for that tube so I'll try to find a real strong one later on today, and see if a new one helps.

Thanks for the wise sugetions.

Tom C.
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  #23  
Old 06-15-2011, 05:45 PM
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I retested the HV rect. and it was just slightly above the min acceptable value on my tester so I replaced it one that pegs the needle on my tester, and the brightness seems to have improved also with the brightness at max the HV only drops from 24 to 19KV. So things are getting better.

The lytics are definitly getting warm I'll have to change them as soon as I can.

The blue gun is testing in the bad range, and is nowhere near the other two guns.




Tom C.
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  #24  
Old 06-15-2011, 06:24 PM
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Here's a copy of an ad for your Admiral.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg admiral.JPG (58.8 KB, 32 views)
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  #25  
Old 06-15-2011, 07:01 PM
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Very cool! Could you please send me a high resolution scan so I can print it out and frame it above the set once I've got it working?

Tom C.
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  #26  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:13 PM
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Sorry I copied it from the internet. I don't actually "have" a copy. You can get them on sh-ebay.
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  #27  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:32 PM
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That blue gun may come back up into normal after cooking for a while, I've had several tubes like that. Seems that after being 'woken up' they tend to stay that way, unless the cathode is completely shot. I even had a CYP tube with a blue gun that tested completely dead at 6.3v on the heaters, but then shot right up to good and stayed there with only a volt more. Solution? brightener! lol
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  #28  
Old 06-15-2011, 11:14 PM
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That is exactly what I've been doing since I tested the tube. It has been sitting at about 7.3 V on the tester since I tested it, and last time I checked the blue gun was reading in the middle of the white zone between "bad" and "good" scales on my tester so there is hope that it will "wake up" and track somewhere around the other three guns.

Unfortunatly the local college that I get my sam's folders from does not have the folder for my set, so hopefuly Bgadow got my PM and will come through on the Sam's for me.

Tom C.
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  #29  
Old 06-16-2011, 04:10 PM
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Well it sorta woke up. when I tested it a couple of hours ago all three guns were testing bad. I immediatly resetup the tester and the blue tested about where the others were, but the other two still tested bad. the only way I can get a dim raster with the sun shining on it as it is now is to turn the brightness all the way up, the only screen control allthe way down, and the drives all the way up.

The drive controls are where the sparking is coming from.

The HV no longer drops so the tube emmisions are probably low(that or the HV fixed it self and my tester is bad).

gota go.
Tom C.
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  #30  
Old 06-16-2011, 06:21 PM
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I today left the remote in the care of the local batteries+ franchise so hopefully within the next week they will have either tracked down or made a electricaly and mechanically equivalent replacement for the out of production original.

Tom C.
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