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#16
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Well it works! This set has not been run in 20+ years. Tested the CRT, looked weak when I firs ran the test but after letting it run for a while, it came up. Did not run it past 6.3V. After burning the junk off the cathode for about 10 minutes, it jumped to full scale then settled down to about 7 which is very good. Has very good brightness and contrast. Set will need more work of course but it's definitely worth it. lots of dirty sockets and jumpy vertical. Tube test next. I'll keep you posted. Does look like a Japanese chassis.
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#17
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Tested all the tubes. Cleaned the tuner. Found 2 suspect tubes. Shorts light was glowing slightly. Replaced with NOS. Picture still "jiggles" at random times. checked solder joints and caps. Nothing obvious yet. Lots of oil filled caps(japanese), This set has a very nice picture! Real wood cabinet. NO particleboard. Anyone have any ideas on the jiggling picture?
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#18
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Thats a Matsushita built set....?? I would change every one of those grey caps and if there are any small green wax coated ones. They are paper. I have a packard bell built by Matsushita and I had to replace all those caps. The electrolytic were fine.
The white ceramic one is probably fine, in my set the grey one thats the boost filter opened and cause the horizontal output to red plate and almost killed the flyback. Last edited by ctc17; 06-06-2011 at 11:09 PM. |
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#19
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Yes Matsushita. Yes there are those green wax coated ones. I will get a list of cap values and make an order. I had a problem in a Pioneer all tube stereo receiver. Has a lot of those gray oil caps. All crap. What a Pain in the a$*. Once done there should not be any issues. Looks like it will be a good performer.
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#20
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Yes GET RID of those green ones before you run it. And make sure you replace the capacitor that goes from the Boost off the bottom of the flyback to the sets b+.
Im not a fan of recapacide at all, but those green ones are evil. |
| Audiokarma |
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#21
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I will do that asap. Thanks for the info. I'll let you know the results.
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