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  #16  
Old 08-30-2010, 08:24 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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mines is the PDP50X3 panel, toshiba TV.

the 18V regulator circuit was totally blown up with a shorted inductor, shorted diode, and open resistor.

I replaced most of the components in the 18V DC-DC circuit on the Y-sus board, but i didnt have the exact inductor, so the highest voltage is about 16.3V

Now what is this "whitewash" and how to set it? I have no remote.
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  #17  
Old 08-30-2010, 08:27 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizard256 View Post
I have a question: I had a plasma TV that has absolutely no picture, good LVDS activity, all correct voltages, fuses are fine but all the heatsinks on YSUS and ZSUS still cool. Audio working as well, did change the logic board to no effect.

I know I can see a precharge glow on working plasma panel without picture, but this one did not have that glow.

Can you explain that?

Cheers, Wizard
Yup. exactly the same thing my PDP50X3 did until i rebuilt the sustain board.
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  #18  
Old 08-30-2010, 11:50 PM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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Funny you mention that, I am currently working on a Toshiba branded LG model 50HP66. The whitewash is in the menu under setup. This function is used to pull full voltage from the power supply so you can setup the output adjustments. Also it is known to be used to clear any residual burn in. Plasma screens are real suceptable to short term burn. If you want to try to tackle adjustments, you could hook up a computer to the VGA port and go to the internet explorer or open up a white page. This will do the same thing as the white wash feature. I just repaired a 2000 model Pioneer. Used the computer technique to adjust the power supply. This set had a blown mosfet and a ceramic power resistor in the PS. Pioneer plasmas are well known for power supply issues. This one had alot of maldischarge after i got it up and running again. The VS and VA were off by 2 to 3 volts. Thats enough to put the colored snow all over the raster.

Good luck.
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  #19  
Old 08-30-2010, 11:57 PM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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Wizard256, are you getting VS and VA to the ysus and zsus? Is the ysus and the Zsus cold or just the ysus board? Like Mbates14 said, I would bet my bottom dollar you experienced the plasma "pop of death". Ysus module bit the bullet and probably took out the ER module on that board as well. Hopefully your zsus board is ok. On this Toshiba I have the PS went to full shutdown. I probed the ysus VSC and there was a dead short. After the replacement of the ysus. Everything was back to normal.
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  #20  
Old 08-31-2010, 01:41 PM
Wizard256 Wizard256 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbates14 View Post
Yup. exactly the same thing my PDP50X3 did until i rebuilt the sustain board.
Mbates14, Which sustain board are you referring to? Y-SUS or Z-SUS?

Quote:
Originally Posted by freakaftr8 View Post
Wizard256, are you getting VS and VA to the ysus and zsus? Is the ysus and the Zsus cold or just the ysus board? Like Mbates14 said, I would bet my bottom dollar you experienced the plasma "pop of death". Ysus module bit the bullet and probably took out the ER module on that board as well. Hopefully your zsus board is ok. On this Toshiba I have the PS went to full shutdown. I probed the ysus VSC and there was a dead short. After the replacement of the ysus. Everything was back to normal.
Freakaftr8, when I say heatsinks are cool, I mean both Y-SUS and Z-SUS.

There are no shorts or loading down of voltages, and they are correct volts, and I still get kind of waveforms on y-buffer test points.

Do you mean ER module as buffer boards? No shorts either. I could not find the short on Z-SUS as well.

Cheers, Wizard256
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  #21  
Old 08-31-2010, 07:36 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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welp. i got back to the 50X3 again. I tested all capacitors. ESR, leakage, and capacitance. they are all good. But my 18V is 16.3v no matter how hard i try it wont go any higher.

So after putting a new ER YPPD-J016B in, it quit getting red hot. and the pixies went away. thing was working great.

5 minutes later POWWWWW blew the 015 out again. the Y-SUS. the ER IPM survived. the IPM heatsinks were warm, but they wernt HOT.
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  #22  
Old 09-01-2010, 12:37 PM
Wizard256 Wizard256 is offline
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Keep tracing back and forwards on that 18V to make sure there are good stuff and no overloads. 16.3V is too low.

Cheers, Wizard
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  #23  
Old 09-01-2010, 04:15 PM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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Here's the deal. I heard you don't wanna mix ip J015b and other models. Your er module could be the culprit causing it
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  #24  
Old 09-01-2010, 06:13 PM
Wizard256 Wizard256 is offline
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Again, what is ER module?

Cheers, Wizard
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  #25  
Old 09-01-2010, 07:46 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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they are both B series. I opened up another thread on this TV. sorry for hijacking this one.
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