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#16
08-26-2010, 09:24 PM
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Ahh, it just shut off again. I pulled the board and examined it under my magnifying lens-I don't see a pink resistor in the power supply section that is 140k, or ANY resistor on any of the boards (including the crt and focus control boards) that are pink and that value. Wizard, if you have that bulletin handy, what was the location, or part # for that resistor?
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#17
08-27-2010, 08:17 PM
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If I Recall correctly it is R818. Value will be higher than 140K when bad. Causes severe wide picture because the voltage is all wrong on SMPS.
Also there is another resistor to check. Body is pink also. I'll have to dig bulletin up and put on details about it this monday. Cheers, Wizard
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#18
08-27-2010, 08:24 PM
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Thanks. I'll await your reply on the other resistor, and pick up a can of freeze spray. Now it's a party.
Your comment on picture width issues could be why I thought the width was changing slightly on this set....
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#19
08-30-2010, 02:10 PM
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I thought that model had bulletin for the intermittent and overvoltage issues, not it.
But I have few suggestions. Make sure the B+ is 135V while running 1080i, the B+ changes slightly when not in 1080i mode. Resolder the deflection circuits and make sure you have good 100uF 35V pump capacitor in vertical IC circuit. Ditto resolder the power supply as well. Cheers, Wizard
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#20
09-21-2010, 07:54 AM
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Just an update....
For the last couple of weeks, the set has run much better. It only shut down that one time, so I was just going to let it be. Well, on Friday, Laura told me it wouldn't "turn on at all". Symptoms: It would power up audio, but no relay click, and then shutoff. I had left the back off of the set, as I had meant to pull the board and redo the solder connections as had been suggested here. The main board is divided down the middle: power supply/sweep on one half, logic and tuner on the other. I touched up all the connections on the power side, and found some dodgy soldering connections in quit a few places. But, I think I found what was causing the problem: On the flyback, one of the pins looked like it had no solder at all! If the flyback was a tube, I would call it pin #1. There were some very small traces of arcing around that pin as well. Needless to say, I rectified that in a hurry, and the tv is back and running. There are a few more caps I'd like to replace, so I'm leaving the back off for the time being.
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