Two Sharp TV's. No picture on either.

[radiotvnut]

The best way to fix those broken traces is to follow the traces back to where a solder connection is. Then, use regular insulated hook-up wire to jump from point A to point B. I fixed a Sharp TV by doing this a few weeks ago.

[MRX37]

Originally Posted by radiotvnut

The best way to fix those broken traces is to follow the traces back to where a solder connection is. Then, use regular insulated hook-up wire to jump from point A to point B. I fixed a Sharp TV by doing this a few weeks ago.

This is partly what I'm doing, especally for the tiny traces. However the crack runs along some larger traces, so I just sanded off the coating and bridged them with solder.

I'm going to use my glue gun to insulate the places where I've soldered the wires to. Since the glue is plastic, I figure that will be fine, it being non conductive. They're soldered pretty well, but I want to guard against the chance of them coming loose as best as I can.

[holmesuser01]

Go for it. I fixed a crack on the main board of a Sony KV27EXR25 chassis that radiated about 4 inches away from the flyback due to the flyback having no hold-down screws installed by the factory. After a move across town, the set no longer worked, and I got it. I've run it non-stop since 1991, and other than the CRT getting a bit iffy, it still runs great.

[MRX37]

Okay! It's got a picture! I didn't see any tinting in the static, so I guess that means all 3 color guns are working.

Was it a good idea to add hot glue to where I soldered the wires? My rationalization is that it'll prevent them from going anywhere, but that neck board is pretty close to those hot color guns... I fear the glue will melt... The board doesn't look like it's seen much heat though...