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#16
08-27-2008, 03:30 AM
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It could be a low hours set...
Some people are a bit careless with fingernails when using knobs and that could cause a low hours set's letters to become scraped off early. If it's the original CRT it may have a serial number sticker on it or glue where one was. Looks like a great find! A freind of mine says he can make such letters on his computer to put on things that were silk-screened originally.
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#17
08-27-2008, 12:15 PM
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I don't mind the worn lettering.
I have an issue that I pretty much created myself. I was trying to adjust the screen positioning, and not finding a horizontal or vertical position control, I decided to play with those controls on the CRT neck board. Well, I think you can guess that I messed up the convergence. Oh, I can fix it, I still have my test pattern DVD, and I can probably make the convergence better then it initally was (one corner was a bit off before), but how in the hell do I adjust the screen positioning? I want to move the picture an inch or so down and to the right, so it's centered better.
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#20
08-27-2008, 01:10 PM
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The Blue Lateral (left-to-right) is another magnet on the neck; usually on the same assembly as the 2 purity rings. It's the CLOSEST one to the socket, but don't confuse it with the 2 purity rings. It could be a thumb wheel, or an axle-looking magnet, or other designs. But you'll see something nearest the socket. Charles
__________________
Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10
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#22
08-27-2008, 01:18 PM
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It's OK to mess with the blue lateral; it won't affect the purity or other convergence. But be sure you're on the blue lateral magnet, and not mistakingly on the purity rings. If you post a photo of the neck, I can point out your blue lateral and verify that the stuff is all installed correctly. I'll be on the computer for at least 20 minutes, and I'll check the thread again before I get off.
Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10
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#23
08-27-2008, 02:04 PM
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First off, the entire neck is covered in some kind of shield that I have no idea how to remove.
Second off, I might accidently mess up the purity, and I don't want to even RISK doing that. That'd probably cause me to rip my hair out. The convergence grid is still entirely on the screen, so the centering isn't really *that* bad. It's just that I'm picky, and there's a lot of knobs to adjust...
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#25
08-27-2008, 11:15 PM
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Heh, want a real challenge? Try getting perfect convergence on a Delta gun CRT... Even converging the red and green perfectly is proving to be impossible for me.
And to think, this all started cos I was being picky about one corner of the screen... I've managed to improve the centering, but convergence, not tonight. Taking a break as I'm too hot and too frustrated to continue.
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#26
08-28-2008, 10:35 AM
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Convergence is something you have to get good at over time. It's a practiced skill, no matter how good you are with that type of thing. When I was servicing projection sets at a rate of 3 or 4 per day, I got to the point where I could do a complete setup after installing one or all new tubes, in about 20 minutes. Other excellent techs who didn't happen to do convergence on a regular basis, might take a week of evenings or call for help. By now, I'm probably rustier than anybody since I only work on 1 or 2 TVs a year nowadays.
Your best bet is to get together with somebody who is in practice, and learn hands-on. There is a good procedural in the RCA Color TV Pict-O-Guide, which is good for most all delta gun tubes. Charles
__________________
Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10
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#27
08-28-2008, 11:30 AM
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Part of it is I'm picky. I can get the convergence to within 1-2 pixels, but it's not good enough for me. Also, the places where the convergence is off have no controls for them! Like there's a bottom R/G/whatever, but no top R/G control. So I figure I can align it at the top and use the bottom controls to bring it together, but then it throws something else off.
I need to get some of those plastic diddle sticks.
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#28
08-28-2008, 11:44 AM
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Yes, you need to get some of those plastic diddlesticks. Do not use a metal tool on such controls. The metal tool will throw the inductance of the coil off and make adjustment difficult to impossible.
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