Zenith CC II 19JC55Z Circuit Breaker tripping

[Tugboat]

It's a single knob non-remote. For UHF you only have 5 available (right after channel 13). If you want another you have to retune a previous one. That actually reminds me to ask if anyone knows where I can get a knob. The original broke at the stem. It's about 1 1/4" across and chrome.

My digital camera is due back tomorrow. I'll post a pic of the set then.

I am hoping for another CC II in a cosole. I can then retire the cart as it's about to fall apart. I've fixed it a number of times, but it has wood for the shelves and it's pretty much bowed from the weight. With the console I can place the VCR and CED player on top.

[radiotvnut]

So, you're saying that the plastic shaft that the silver knob slides on to broke off? That was very common with those channel selectors. I may have a knob in my junk; but, you would have to fabricate some sort of shaft.

[Tugboat]

The tuner shaft is okay. It's the hollow shaft on the knob that broke (or so I was told). The knob was then lost.

I hope to post some pics of the set today.

[zenith2134]

Sounds like a nice set...would like to see it also. As mentioned before, these late 70s Zeniths really were HQ sets and deserve repair

[Tugboat]

Well pics will have to wait 'til Friday when I have my own camera back. Darn Fuji camera my mom has uses the mini usb cable, but with one slight modification to the end the camera uses. I can't find the cable it came with and all the usb cables I have won't fit! Then to top it off, the camera uses and xD memory card and my reader doesn't support it! They should be shot for messing with a standard.

[Tugboat]

Okay, I just replaced the tipler and that fixed the blowing of the breaker. Now on to the next problem....

I turn the set on after the new tripler install and I get sound right away, but instead of the image (snow since there's no input signal) I get a loud POP sound. When this happened I shut it down and looked for smoke or the smell of something burning. There was none. I then turned off all lights and tried it again. This time I watched the neck of the tube. I noticed that there was a blue glow between the yoke and rings. As it got brighter it would eventually arc to the end of the tube. When it arced, the blue glow would go back to a dim glow and build up again til it arced. The only thing you could see on the front of the tube was a flash each time it arced.

Okay, any suggestions? Is the tube toast? Did I miss or mess up something?

Thanks!

[MRX37]

When the old tripler went, it probably took something with it.

I don't know if the tube is shot, but you should probably keep it unplugged until someone comes along with a more precise answer.

[radiotvnut]

I do remember a friend of mine having that problem. He changed the CRT socket module, IIRC, to solve the problem.

[Tugboat]

By "CRT socket module" do you mean the video output board? The one that the socket is soldered to and sitting on the neck of the CRT? If so, how easy/hard are these to locate?

Thanks

[zenith2134]

Yep, thats the crt module. Post the board number (9-xxx) and maybe someone has one as a spare... I have a few I'll let you know.

[Tugboat]

Hope this is the correct number. It's located on the bottom in big letters, so it has to be it.

9-121-01C

[andy]

...

[zenith2134]

Sorry, I don;t have that module. Most of the Zeniths I've scrapped were 80s sets... good luck in fixing yours

[Tugboat]

So should I solder a wire for each pin on the CRT to a single wire, connect each wire to a pin on the CRT and the single end to a ground point and then fire up the set to see if the CRT still arcs?

How about just trying to replace the CRT socket instead of the entire board? Is it something I could locate by part number? I think the spark gap is toast as I checked resistance from the HV focus pin to the ground pin that connects to the other end of the spark gap and the DMM reacted and showed 00. Now isn't there supposed to be no path because of the gap and since the meter reacted, there must be some kind of connection when there shouldn't be?

Thanks!

[bgadow]

You should be able to find that board-there seem to be a lot of Zenith modules floating around. Hopefully some others who have them will chime in. Unfortunately (well, fortunately for me!) I haven't run into this particular problem so can't offer much advice. One thing that comes to mind, and maybe this set is too new for this to be an issue, but CCII's used a 4-leg capacitor in the HV regulation circuit. The first version, which was white in color, was notorious for failures which caused arcing at the yoke/crt neck. The 4-leg cap should be an orange drop, either from the factory or because somebody replaced it under a recall campaign. Worth checking if you haven't already.