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  #16  
Old 04-02-2008, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetroHacker View Post
I'd go ahead and repcap the whole horizontal section. You're going to have to recap the entire set anyway...

-Ian
You're absolutely right, but in doing so one misses out on a learning experience. "Shotgunning" is something experienced techs will do, but sometimes it's nice to know exactly which components are causing the trouble....
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  #17  
Old 04-02-2008, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mkoser View Post
I think I will just flippen start recapping the set. I mean, whats a few bucks in caps and a few hours worth of work.

I do need to find the sams for this specific set. The one posed above looks very similar to what I have, but I think I want to have the exact one for this set.

Anyone have any idea where I could get my hands on one?

thanks
Matt K.
If the rest of the set appears to be working I'd start with the horizontal sweep section first, and see what the results are. But before you start sinking money into capacitors you might want to make sure those coils I mentioned aren't open. They may prove a challenge to find replacements if it turns out one is bad. Just my .02....

The next time I'm in town I'll have a look for a Sams for your set. There's a radio shop that have Sams dating way back. They may have it.
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  #18  
Old 04-02-2008, 03:09 PM
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the only thing connected to pin One on the hoz out tube on my set is a 35 ohm resistor that is connected to Pin 1 on the same tube.

MK
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  #19  
Old 04-02-2008, 03:10 PM
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I checked the width coil.... it's not open.

MK
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  #20  
Old 04-02-2008, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old1625 View Post
If the rest of the set appears to be working I'd start with the horizontal sweep section first, and see what the results are. But before you start sinking money into capacitors you might want to make sure those coils I mentioned aren't open. They may prove a challenge to find replacements if it turns out one is bad. Just my .02....

The next time I'm in town I'll have a look for a Sams for your set. There's a radio shop that have Sams dating way back. They may have it.
Thank you,

I would greatly appreciate it!

MK
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  #21  
Old 04-02-2008, 06:13 PM
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Sams 118-2, for the record. I'll look for one too...
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  #22  
Old 04-02-2008, 09:09 PM
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I have an extra copy. Send me a PM with your address if you still need it.
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  #23  
Old 04-05-2008, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkoser View Post
Would someone be able to give me a clue where to start? I'd like to get the set functional before I attempt to recap it..... just so I know where I'm starting at..
Hi Matt, I have looked this thread over and thought I would start with your original post for advice. First, you are chasing your tail trying to get the set functional without recapping. Not to say that you can't get the set to function without a TOTAL recap, because you can. Since you seem to be concerned with the horizontal section you could just recap that section, check your tubes, and have a set that may perform for a while. How long is a while? Who knows?

As far as where you stand, or are "starting at" you already have that answer. What you need to remember is that you have a set that is around 50 years old. Capacitors were never meant to do their job that long and operating your set with them is operating a ticking time bomb. ESPECIALLY if a set has been dormant for many years which is normally the case. No, the set wont explode but a shorted capacitor can and will take out much harder to find and much more expensive parts like the power transformer (if equipped), or the flyback transformer.

The topic of recap or not recap is always in debate here and I think it is good that it comes up from time to time. I myself have sat in your shoes many times until I finally fried the power transformer in a 1949 RCA.

In a nutshell you really should replace at the very least all of the electrolytics and paper capacitors. Personally I believe that the paper caps cause more trouble than anything. Many times old electrolytics are still holding their own; but for how long?

You can leave the ceramic disc caps alone pretty much as they don't seem to cause a lot of trouble. Remember if you replace any caps that the capacity rating should be as much as the original or somewhat higher if needed. The working voltage MUST be the same or ANY amount higher. Also electrolytic capacitors ARE POLARIZED. Pay CLOSE attention!

You can get "orange drop" replacements for all of your paper caps and you need not worry about polarity with them. They are cheap and last a LONG time.

I have three sets from the 50's that are functional with most, if not all original components, but I would not want to operate them for hours at a time. Especially not without sticking close by! Like I said domancy is a factor and the sets I own have been in my possession for at least twenty years and were being used at least periodically before I bought them. In other words they have never sat for decades without being used and I believe that is the only reason they still perform. For the most part my use of them has been limited. That also helps...

With a recap you will be able to enjoy the set, and better yet not drive yourself crazy having to constantly decipher some new problem.

You also need to check and replace any resistors that are out of tollerance, and I'm sure there are a few. They are not as touchy as caps as far as age. If they check OK leave em....

I hope this is some help and good luck...
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  #24  
Old 04-07-2008, 11:23 AM
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I think you were approaching it backwards when you said you wanted to get the set to work before you recap. In reality you need to recap in order to get the set to work. That's the first step. Everything else depends on having new capacitors. Its really the only way to do it.
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