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  #16  
Old 11-25-2007, 01:11 PM
andy andy is offline
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That would be it. You disconnect the wires from the divider because they are glued to the CRTs. Usually, you push and twist the wires a half turn to unlock them.

There's a lot of cigarette tar in that set. Be sure to clean the lenses, mirror, and inside of the screen if you want a good picture!
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  #17  
Old 11-25-2007, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
That would be it. You disconnect the wires from the divider because they are glued to the CRTs. Usually, you push and twist the wires a half turn to unlock them.

There's a lot of cigarette tar in that set. Be sure to clean the lenses, mirror, and inside of the screen if you want a good picture!
Yes, definitely.

EDIT: The splitter itself was easy to remove (1 screw) but I'm having trouble removing the leads on top. The rubber boots around the wires are just pulling off. I don't want to push something too hard, for fear of crapping something up. Let me go try again.

Here's a photo of the splitter with the wire boots pulled up. I can't really tell how the wires are attached to the unit.

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6...ivider2qc7.jpg
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2007, 08:06 PM
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hi again, youre gonna have to put some grunt into removing those wires. just jet you a pair of pliers and yank them out. there not like most that you have to push in and turn to remove. and when you install the new splitter you can feel when the wire seats back in the new splitter. steve
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2007, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rcaman View Post
hi again, youre gonna have to put some grunt into removing those wires. just jet you a pair of pliers and yank them out. there not like most that you have to push in and turn to remove. and when you install the new splitter you can feel when the wire seats back in the new splitter. steve
So, will I see a bare wire end, or a connector, or what? And I can just push the leads into the new splitter and that's it? Sounds easier than I expected!
EDIT: I was able to remove the splitter. The bare cable ends look like needles. I marked each lead with a Sharpie so I wouldn't mix them up, just in case.

Also, is it this resistor

http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storefr...79&itm_index=5

and which of these three choices should I go with?

http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storefr...68&itm_index=0
http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storefr...23&itm_index=1
http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storefr...73&itm_index=2

Also also, after I was told to look for R14718 and 719 to be bad, I looked and found 718 blown. 719 looks good still, I'll check it with the trusty DMM.
EDIT: R14719 is still intact. Oddly, 718 reads as still closed, but because it's burnt. I'm replacing it anyway. It sure as heck is a good thing 719 is good, because Tritronics discontinued them!
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  #20  
Old 11-26-2007, 08:38 PM
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I'm going to go ahead and purchase one of their not in box original RCA dividers and the two resistors. If there is a reason I should go with the NIB one, let me know.
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  #21  
Old 11-26-2007, 08:49 PM
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it will come back to bite you in the butt. dont buy a generic splitter. that thing has 30000 volts comming and going out of it. the cheap ones wont hold up as long. steve
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  #22  
Old 11-26-2007, 10:07 PM
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it will come back to bite you in the butt. dont buy a generic splitter. that thing has 30000 volts comming and going out of it. the cheap ones wont hold up as long. steve
So this one would be better:

http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storefr...68&itm_index=0
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  #23  
Old 11-27-2007, 08:47 PM
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Just ordered the parts

I went with the original RCA divider ($50.85). Odd, the website asked me for a 'PO Number', which I don't know what is, so I just put N/A and it worked.

For me, the hardest part of this repair will be removing the old resistors and soldering in the new ones. I've never soldered onto a board before.
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  #24  
Old 12-03-2007, 03:24 PM
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OK, the parts got here today. (all correct) I installed the new HV block no problem, but I've never done any small-scale soldering, so I'll need some tips on putting in the new resistors. (and removing the old ones) Also, I need to actually dig out my iron. Will I have to remove the board from the set to get at the bottom of it for any reason? Another big question is, if I turn on the set after replacing only the HV divider, will I fudge something up?
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  #25  
Old 12-03-2007, 04:32 PM
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Basically the way I do it is go ahead and grab one lead with needle nose pliers, have the board in the air to where you can access the solder point. Apply the soldering iron onto the area between the point and the flat area on the solder area. you will see the solder start to turn shiny. at this point the part you are pulling on will pop off the board. Installing the new part you want to set the post of the new resistor into the hole of the board. hold the iron on the solder area and the part will start to slide through the board. Do this on both ends, make sure there are no voids in the area where the post of the new resistor and the solder on the board meet or you will have to apply a sittle solder. Once you achieve this, ude some wire cutters and clip the excess from the bottom of the board. Basically look at the other components installed on the board and make this job you just completed look like the solder that was done to those and dont let the excess post hang lower than those. This should help you.. (Note: Do not hold the iron on the board for more than it takes to melt the solder or you will burn through the board!!)
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  #26  
Old 12-03-2007, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakaftr8 View Post
Basically the way I do it is go ahead and grab one lead with needle nose pliers, have the board in the air to where you can access the solder point. Apply the soldering iron onto the area between the point and the flat area on the solder area. you will see the solder start to turn shiny. at this point the part you are pulling on will pop off the board. Installing the new part you want to set the post of the new resistor into the hole of the board. hold the iron on the solder area and the part will start to slide through the board. Do this on both ends, make sure there are no voids in the area where the post of the new resistor and the solder on the board meet or you will have to apply a sittle solder. Once you achieve this, ude some wire cutters and clip the excess from the bottom of the board. Basically look at the other components installed on the board and make this job you just completed look like the solder that was done to those and dont let the excess post hang lower than those. This should help you.. (Note: Do not hold the iron on the board for more than it takes to melt the solder or you will burn through the board!!)
Thanks for the tips. Also, does the polarity of the resistors matter? I wasn't sure, so I thought I'd ask first just to be safe.
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  #27  
Old 12-03-2007, 05:10 PM
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No. On resistors, polarity does not matter... When this set comes up and running, post pics!
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  #28  
Old 12-03-2007, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by freakaftr8 View Post
No. On resistors, polarity does not matter... When this set comes up and running, post pics!
Will do
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  #29  
Old 12-03-2007, 07:09 PM
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Parts are in

I've got all the parts in, and I still have no high voltage. I can't hear the whine or see the heaters in the CRTs light up. I DO have sound, because when I adjust the volume, I can hear the little 'clicks' as the volume increases. The relay in the set also stays on; before it would click once and then click again half a second later. The set seems to stay 'on' i.e. the relay doesn't click again until I press the power button. I'm thinking I made a wrong connection somewhere?

EDIT: A green LED can now be seen on part of a board inside the set while it's plugged in.
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  #30  
Old 12-03-2007, 07:10 PM
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You could also buy some desoldering braid from Radio Shack or other electronics store to remove the resistors. Just place the braid on the solder you want to remove and place a hot iron on the braid. You'll see the molten solder soak up into the braid.
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