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  #16  
Old 05-08-2007, 03:14 PM
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larschr larschr is offline
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I don´t know about any places where i can get info on this, unfortunately. Another major problem is that i can´t have the set switched on for more than a few seconds at the time because of the overheating resistors. When the set failed, i was switching itself rapidly on and of for a few seconds, and i wonder if that may have damaged a transistor somewhere. The fact that there is no elecronics shop nearby isn´t making the case any better. I have a working parts chassis, but it is in my mothers apartment, and it will need all the caps replaced. But now it looks like this may be the most simple solution after all.
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  #17  
Old 05-08-2007, 04:38 PM
andy andy is offline
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Try tracing where those resostrs go. Either there's too much voltage going in (unliekly), or there's something loading down the other side of them. Chances are it's a shorted diode, cap, or transistor in the circuit being fed power through those resistors. If you need to run the set, unsolder one end of the resistors so they don't overheat.
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  #18  
Old 05-10-2007, 11:56 AM
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larschr larschr is offline
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I looked at the schematic now, and the power to the v-amp goes through those resistors and is fed more or less right into the transistors, which is probably shorted. I´ll try to get new transistors this weekend, if not i will get the parts chassis by the end of the month.
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2007, 06:21 PM
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Kiwick Kiwick is offline
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I'm from Italy and i have several Philips TVs, with K9, KM2, K11 and K12 chassis (and i've done a lot of work on them)

A common problem with Philips TVs are dry/cracked solder joints, you should never ever use a vintage Philips before checking for bad solder joints on the deflection chassis as this may cause severe damage to the PCB and components and a potential fire hazard

That's sad as old Philips TVs are otherwise real engineering masterpieces...

Francesco
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