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  #1  
Old 04-04-2019, 09:13 PM
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static1701 static1701 is offline
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When I got it, the screen was mostly pinkish. I turned down the screens until I got a black background. I set my pattern generator to the white screen option and made sure I had white. As far as convergence, so far all I did was slightly adjust the dials on the yolk. I can get the center to converge well but at the left and right sides I can see all three color lines. I did not have enough time to work on that yet.
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:22 PM
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drh4683 drh4683 is offline
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Its a very nice TV. Personally, this era of Zenith really won't benefit from any kind of recap work unless there's a known faulty cap. But generally, the caps in these, especially the filter cans, hold up excellent and still have low ESR.
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2019, 08:18 PM
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static1701 static1701 is offline
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I worked on the set today: Cleaned the tuner, cleaned the brightness pot, turned the max brightness pot all the way up but I don't get a very bright screen. I don't have a CRT tester or a high voltage probe. What Can I do before I invest money to start replacing parts to make sure that the set it worth fixing? I am thinking of replacing all the electrolytic caps in the power supply / high voltage to see what happens since it is not that many. Thoughts?
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Old 04-02-2019, 09:08 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Better to find a HV probe than blindly change parts on a set that new IMHO. If you are runing 18KV of HV the set will wear out it's CRT that much faster (lower HV= more cathode current to achieve a fixed brightness level=shorter cathode life), and if you are running over 30KV the CRT could arc internally and be damaged.

This is the cheapest decent looking one I could find on the bay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Dyn...AAAOSw4ZNcm-y1

If you check any remaining local TV repair shops, haunt Ham radio and antique radio swapmeets your bound to come upon a cheaper HV meter (I think I paid less than $15 for the last 3 I've had).
You may even find a TV repair shop that will test the HV for you...I'd even loan you a meter if you're close by.
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  #5  
Old 04-02-2019, 09:50 PM
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static1701 static1701 is offline
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Maybe I am expecting too much, the set it totally watchable in the garage with the door closed, it just looks washed out when the door is open. But I don't want to kill it, so I will get a probe and find out. Thank you.
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  #6  
Old 04-03-2019, 11:32 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Its normal for this set not to be very brite. If direct sun hits the screen
the pix will wash out. This is the year Chromacolor CRT's came out but
it was only on the next step up. they gave 50% more brightness,
better focus, sharper, & are less reflective.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Quote:
Originally Posted by static1701 View Post
Maybe I am expecting too much, the set it totally watchable in the garage with the door closed, it just looks washed out when the door is open. But I don't want to kill it, so I will get a probe and find out. Thank you.
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  #7  
Old 04-03-2019, 09:06 PM
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static1701 static1701 is offline
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How it is working now

Here is a video after I cleaned the tuner and the brightness pot:

https://youtu.be/JDv_IMD4VVg

and a few pics:

Maybe it is bright enough.
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  #8  
Old 04-04-2019, 04:08 PM
consoleguy67 consoleguy67 is offline
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The convergence still seems a little off.
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  #9  
Old 09-09-2019, 11:08 PM
kskallen kskallen is offline
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I have 14a9c50 since late 70s.
I learned color TV repair on it and keep it around.
How is your project going?
I have changed all electrolytic over the years and picture tube.
A transistor in IF and UHF tuner diode.
Chroma Demod IC and Varistor in horiz circuit as well as boost diode
Plus the usual tubes.
About what I can remember
Needs a horiz center control but haven’t found one yet.
I have original Zenith manual if you have questions. I thinks Sams too
Haven’t turned it on recently but worked ok
If I recall the procedure for screens was kill vertical with switch in back and bring each screen up until you barely see a line. Do for all three.
Kirby
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