Quote:
Originally Posted by vol.2
Ah. Ok makes sense. This comment is specifically because OP is restoring a JDM chassis designed for 100VAC input.
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Yes, but this can be relevant to vacuum tube chassis American electronics too. Some old American stuff designed for 115VAC (as was the norm from WWI through the end of the tube era) isn't always it's happiest with 10 more volts...It usually doesn't matter much but on some sets where horizontal output cathode current is excessive and every repalcable part has been checked and it can't be made any lower without adjusting line voltage to the power cord (and or on high dollar early color sets where loosing a flyback is a death sentence) adjusting line voltage for minimum cathode current while maintaining reasonable B+ and heater voltage can be worthwhile. My regular use early colors get their power through a resonant isolation transformer that takes 70-140VAC in and spits out a constant 120VAC then into a bucking auto-transformer that shaves 6V off that (then into the TV) so cathode current and B+ are at a good balance for minimum stress.
If you stick with American SS stuff none of this matters, but I'm mostly a tube chassis era collector.