Sony KV-1320U (Japanese market) Trinitron restoration

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by vol.2

Why not just use the heater voltage on a tube restorer?

I'm not taking about CRT testing or restoration there. I'm taking about powering the whole darn TV. You can't power the whole TV from a CRT tester/restorer.

If you wire a 4 wire heater transformer so that one terminal of the secondary connects to one terminal of the primary and connect a power outlet across the other terminal of the seconday and the other terminal of the primary you can make a device that lowers or increases (depending on the polarity of the secondary waveform) the output voltage by the secondary voltage....IE if you have a 24V secondary transformer and a 120V line you can wire the transformer to give you 96V output or 144V output. Japanese electronics designed for 100V don't always like American 125V... bucking line voltage down closer to the rating prolongs the life of the device.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Japanese electronics designed for 100V don't always like American 125V.

Ah. Ok makes sense. This comment is specifically because OP is restoring a JDM chassis designed for 100VAC input.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by vol.2

Ah. Ok makes sense. This comment is specifically because OP is restoring a JDM chassis designed for 100VAC input.

Yes, but this can be relevant to vacuum tube chassis American electronics too. Some old American stuff designed for 115VAC (as was the norm from WWI through the end of the tube era) isn't always it's happiest with 10 more volts...It usually doesn't matter much but on some sets where horizontal output cathode current is excessive and every repalcable part has been checked and it can't be made any lower without adjusting line voltage to the power cord (and or on high dollar early color sets where loosing a flyback is a death sentence) adjusting line voltage for minimum cathode current while maintaining reasonable B+ and heater voltage can be worthwhile. My regular use early colors get their power through a resonant isolation transformer that takes 70-140VAC in and spits out a constant 120VAC then into a bucking auto-transformer that shaves 6V off that (then into the TV) so cathode current and B+ are at a good balance for minimum stress.

If you stick with American SS stuff none of this matters, but I'm mostly a tube chassis era collector.