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#1
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I have heard tell that the "restoration" setting on the Sencore units is actually good for this.
It doesn't "rejuve" the guns, it just does elevated heater voltage and beam current at the same time. |
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#2
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Quote:
![]() Anyway, some progress over the past couple days. I got the donor set split apart and the CRT removed and cleaned. ![]() Much better! ![]() Over the next couple days I will similarly split the 1320U apart. No broken yoke plastics so far - wish me luck! I've been studying the chassis and comparing it to the photos and documentation I have for its American counterpart, the KV-1220U. A major difference I see right off the bat is a voltage selection tap for 100 or 110V, as well as the fact the set substitutes a circuit breaker for regular glass fuses, of which there are three: ![]() I have, of course, moved the fuse to the 110V tap, but am still presently running it off a variac to be as gentle to the power supply circuits as possible. I may experiment with lowering the B+ at full line voltage to make it slightly less inconvenient to use, but that will be a project for when the set is set up and just about wrapped up. One last thing. Does anyone happen to know a good substitute for these neon bulbs? There are four on the neckboard being used for arc suppression. The Sony P/N is 1-519-013-13. It appears the circuit glue went corrosive and is eating the leads on all four (one even fell off!). For the life of me, I cannot find an industry equivalent for these or any kind of cross-reference at all, and of course they are not for sale anywhere I've looked, even the surplus sites that are pretty good at keeping weird parts. For now, I can scavenge some from the KV-1203 which uses a few of the same type, but it's not an ideal situation. ![]() More soon!
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When you lower your standards, you set a new standard! ISO: Mitsubishi 6CT-338, Sony Chromatron 19C70/100, Yaou "Colornetron" GTC-9, etc... |
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#3
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Looks awesome. Going to be a beautiful set when done.
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I seem to remember someone advising me to also have current running to the cathodes while doing this for the proper effect, but then I've also encountered suggestions for just leaving the heater at like 8-10Vs or something and letting it simply sit there. Quote:
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