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#1
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Ive seen that problem at least 100 times. It's the metal electrolytic cap strapped on the top of the back of the chassis.
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#2
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Thank you!
I will give that a shot. I think I have one from a very similar '89 Sylvania I parted out last year. I just need to find it. |
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#3
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You should be able to sub for normal caps. When I've done this, the metal cap had a legend on it to interpret the values and the terminals. I don't know how crucial the actual values are at whatever point that is in the circuit for your particular set, but using discrete caps in place of the old one might be a better choice than using a substitute metal cap of different values.
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#4
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Thanks for all the info!
I couldn’t find the ‘89 board, so your suggestion to just use separate caps gives me hope. I hope to desolder the big guy after work tonight and then I can get his values. Hopefully I’ve got some with the same ratings. |
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#5
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Just make sure you use the correct voltage ratings as well. You can post an image of the metal cap's markings if you need help deciphering the terminals.
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| Audiokarma |
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#6
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Thanks!
It was pretty clear. One ciruit, 200V 600μf, has a semicircle cutout by it, and the other, 250V 30μf, has a triangle cutout by it. I know it's safe to go with a higher voltage cap, but which is a better direction to go with the capacitance, if I have something close? If I don't have anything close to those ratings, I might need a lead on where to buy single caps as cheap as possible. |
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#7
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Quote:
When its really bad will look like a Christmas tree. Zeno
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