1971 Philco color Tube Hybrid

[zeno]

Take the whole thing apart. Clean the cup, socket, wires with 91% alky.
Look for pin holes & carbon traces on the cup. Check the filament
winding also. It is at full HV potential & a common place to arc.
Last be sure the HV is in spec. If it runs high it will start arcing
soon again & cause other headaches.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by zeno

Take the whole thing apart. Clean the cup, socket, wires with 91% alky.
Look for pin holes & carbon traces on the cup. Check the filament
winding also. It is at full HV potential & a common place to arc.
Last be sure the HV is in spec. If it runs high it will start arcing
soon again & cause other headaches.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

I think the arcing is actually happening where the wires go into the plastic tube socket as shown in a screen shot of the issue occurring. Any tips on how to open it up? The plastic base is riveted onto the metal cage and the top cover of the plastic socket might be glued in. Not sure how to get it off.

Also what in the heck is this bare copper wire that is dangling from the side of the HV box?

https://imgur.com/a/aD58QCV

[zeno]

Wire looks like its to dress the wire bundle, yoke wires ?
Top cap should pop off.
Cup would need to be drilled off. Do last if needed.
Try removing the cover & running it in a blacked out room to see arc.
Set has a focus divider, white block behind the cage. Those can
crack & arc.

Zeno

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by zeno

Wire looks like its to dress the wire bundle, yoke wires ?
Top cap should pop off.
Cup would need to be drilled off. Do last if needed.
Try removing the cover & running it in a blacked out room to see arc.
Set has a focus divider, white block behind the cage. Those can
crack & arc.

Zeno

I removed the top plastic cap to see the pins where the red and white wires go. First I hear the high pitched CRT whine seconds after powering it on. Then the arcing starts. The arcing is still happening and clearly is jumping between the red and wires across the pins they connect to. Also there appears to be a second spark happening right after the first bright one which is seen flying off bottom part of the metal chassis (near the HV metal box perhaps)

https://imgur.com/a/UgnZ2GO

[zeno]

There is clearly brown greasy looking crud on the socket.
See if you can clean it up with a swab & 91% alky. Be sure to discharge HV first but the divider probably bleeds it off anyhows.
You may want to search e-bay for a NOS HV cup.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by zeno

There is clearly brown greasy looking crud on the socket.
See if you can clean it up with a swab & 91% alky. Be sure to discharge HV first but the divider probably bleeds it off anyhows.
You may want to search e-bay for a NOS HV cup.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Will do. Any advice about the metal rivets? Is it avoidable to drill them off or is that they only way if I need to replace the HV cup?

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Lain94

Will do. Any advice about the metal rivets? Is it avoidable to drill them off or is that they only way if I need to replace the HV cup?

The cup looks like you can easily get away cleaning it. Even if he worst cup I encountered in a 13" Zenith color that had arced through the cup I was able to clean it with goof off drill out the carbon in the hole the arcing made them fill the hole with sensor safe silicone and it's held up for years.

There's several ways to remove rivits such as drilling, grinding the heads off with a Dremel (good for cases where you want to temporarily remove a rivited item), cutting the shaft of the rivit if the item it's securing is gone and it's loose in it's hole.
I'd leave the socket attached for cleaning.