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  #1  
Old 04-11-2021, 08:19 AM
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init4fun init4fun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
This radio uses a positive ground I believe because the A+ wire (the positive wire) is the battery cable's ground shielding cable and the A- wire (the negative wires) are the green and black wires that are inside the ground shielding cable/cloth sheathing.
The schematic shows A+ as being connected to ground and A- to the switch. Back in the day when 6V cars were the norm a lot of cars were positive ground....
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Old 04-16-2021, 05:34 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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I got the battery today, hooked it up, and still nothing from the vibrator, even after lightly tapping it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver.

Time for disection of the vibrator?
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Old 04-17-2021, 10:36 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
I got the battery today, hooked it up, and still nothing from the vibrator, even after lightly tapping it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver.

Time for disection of the vibrator?
Remove the vibrator and connect 6vac to pins 3&6. With AC applied it should vibrate.
There's probably a heavy corrosion buildup on the contacts after so many years. If it doesn't buzz on AC, the coil is probably open.
Trying to remember after so many years.
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Old 04-17-2021, 11:03 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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In PM exchange with Vortalexfan, he indicated that the battery's no-load voltage was 5.4V as received, tho it had been topped up to over 6V before shipment. So I'm wondering if it has developed a bad cell. Told him to withold payment until whether that's determined.
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Old 04-17-2021, 11:55 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
In PM exchange with Vortalexfan, he indicated that the battery's no-load voltage was 5.4V as received, tho it had been topped up to over 6V before shipment. So I'm wondering if it has developed a bad cell. Told him to withold payment until whether that's determined.
I have a Toyota Prius battery pack with a dead cell. It's a li-ion type battery that should read 7.8 to 8 volts no load. It reads 6.4 volts, so it had to be replaced. There's 28 cell packs in the battery bank.
Lucky thing, the bad cell shorts instead of going O/C, or you'll be calling for a tow.
Slightly OTT, but noteworthy.
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Old 04-17-2021, 07:45 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Remove the vibrator and connect 6vac to pins 3&6. With AC applied it should vibrate.
There's probably a heavy corrosion buildup on the contacts after so many years. If it doesn't buzz on AC, the coil is probably open.
Trying to remember after so many years.
Sometimes the contacts in vibrators are so corroded they won't vibrate even at 6V AC...the vibrator in my 47 olds radio needed close to 24VAC from my variac and some light knocking on it to wake it up... it isn't a bad idea to put a 6 or 12V turnsignal bulb in series as a current limiter during the AC wakeup cycle...it can also serve as an indicator if it started working.
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  #7  
Old 04-19-2021, 10:41 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Sometimes the contacts in vibrators are so corroded they won't vibrate even at 6V AC...the vibrator in my 47 olds radio needed close to 24VAC from my variac and some light knocking on it to wake it up... it isn't a bad idea to put a 6 or 12V turnsignal bulb in series as a current limiter during the AC wakeup cycle...it can also serve as an indicator if it started working.
OK, Thanks, will give that a try as well.

I've pretty much recapped this whole radio except for 3 capacitors, C12,C13, C16 and C12 and C13 are a part of the vibrator circuit but not sure what their purpose is in the vibrator circuit, they are "in series" with L2 which is the "A" Choke, and C16 is apart of the output tube socket circuit (I think its a cathode bypass cap) and its a .003 MFD Cap and I unfortunately didn't order one because I thought I had one laying around in my cap stash but I didn't.

C12 and C13 are kind of funky caps in that one side of the caps are crimped and soldered to the chassis and the other side are attached to L2 and the Vibrator socket, but I'm not sure if those caps should be replaced and if so how to go about replacing them.

C16 on the other hand I was wondering how critical the value of that part is because I do have some .001 MFD caps which if I could put one of those in that spot I might do that instead until I can make another order.

Last edited by vortalexfan; 04-21-2021 at 04:31 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2021, 12:08 AM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Well a little update on the vibrator, unfortunately I think this vibrator is toast, I tried powering it up with a Variac in order to put 6 VAC on it, and its not doing anything, I even tried putting 24 VAC on it like Electronic M suggested and it just won't do anyrhing, and the weird thing is that there isn't any corrosion on the contacts (yes I did open it up) just a lot of carbon dust from the contacts arcing against each over the years but no corrosion.

I may have to get another vibrator online over on ebay, unless someone on here has a 6V Positive Ground 6-pin Vibrator they could donate to the cause.
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2021, 12:27 AM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Would this Vibrator Work in my radio?

See Link below.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MAL...QAAOSwBnVW-cOt
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