Motorola 23CL336BW scored

[Tom9589]

That's what I had figured. I wonder if they had an easy way to remove the bonded glass? I can't imagine the rebuilders sitting a bunch of tubes in garbage cans outside in the sun to soften the adhesive.

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Tom9589

That's what I had figured. I wonder if they had an easy way to remove the bonded glass? I can't imagine the rebuilders sitting a bunch of tubes in garbage cans outside in the sun to soften the adhesive.

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

As I understand, the hot wire method. Nichrome wire heated with a low voltage, high current transformer.

[ohohyodafarted]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

Scotty placed the tube in the oven at about 300F and the bonding material softens up and the safety glass comes right off.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by ohohyodafarted

Scotty placed the tube in the oven at about 300F and the bonding material softens up and the safety glass comes right off.

most of us don't have an oven that can fit a 21fjp22a! :p

[DavGoodlin]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

most of us don't have an oven that can fit a 21fjp22a! :p

As an appliance fan, I picture a Westinghouse or Philco large 70s wall oven on its back facing up, on a stand with an insulated extension out the back to accommodate the neck. This would allow the tube to face up, its safety glass accessible just under the door. Maintaining evenness of heat and baking a CRT to 300 then cooling again is a scary thought.

I was looking at two of my rectangular Zenith's with 2" of yellow fringing, wondering if its worth the trouble. If you want a uniformly good picture free of external tint, its your call.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

As an appliance fan, I picture a Westinghouse or Philco large 70s wall oven on its back facing up, on a stand with an insulated extension out the back to accommodate the neck. This would allow the tube to face up, its safety glass accessible just under the door. Maintaining evenness of heat and baking a CRT to 300 then cooling again is a scary thought.

I was looking at two of my rectangular Zenith's with 2" of yellow fringing, wondering if its worth the trouble. If you want a uniformly good picture free of external tint, its your call.

The yellow green cataracts Zeniths get can b dealt with without any heat. Go to your local music store and buy no18 or thicker steel guitar string (get 2-5 incase you snap one), affix a wood handle securely to each end of the string, with the CRT sitting face up in a garbage can or 5gal bucket and the tape around the safety glass perimeter removed hold the string taught and use it to saw through the rubbery gummy glue...once you get to the clear part of the glue you'll probably need to pull on one handle at a time with both hands.
Once that's done the safety glass will be off and you can peel the glue off where it will cooperate...where it won't razorblades, fingernails and a paint remover called Good Off will take care of the rest. Once all the glue is gone make sure everything is spotless and reattach the safety glass with foam double stick spacers and silicone caulk (my preferred method) or tape.

I've done around a dozen Zenith cataract removals with this method and have a 100% success rate with it.
Post separation glue clean up can be a bit tedious (especially on the last couple years of bonded glass CRTs Zenith made), but the lense separation process is quick and safe and thus in my mind makes up for it.