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#1
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Okay, so I'm back at it with a new multimeter. This one has a capacitor tester, which will hopefully make my life a little easier.
So I did a few voltage tests, and my VDC on Pin 8 of the 35Z5 looks okay. It's actually a little higher than what they listed in the Sams. So as far as I can tell, I have B+, but my signal is getting lost somewhere. Does anyone have any thoughts on where I should be looking next? I tested voltages around the 35Z5, and they all looked okay, so I'm thinking this isn't a voltage problem. I did notice that my capacitance readings on C18 and C19 look off, but I'm also not sure if those can be reliably measured in circuit or not. This is all with power off, of course. Where would you all start looking?
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To keep your tubes running smoothly, make sure to dust underneath the glass as well. |
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#2
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Voltage and resistance measurements at the tube sockets and compare to the charts ?
jr |
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#3
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Gotcha. I sort of started that but I'll go through and get readings for each pin on each tube.
I did notice that my set is a different revision from the SAMS. It has a network where the one SAMS listed doesn't and the position of the 60 and 40uf sections of the filter can are swapped. Mine came with a schematic that shows those revisions, but it doesn't list the pin measurements for reference. Do you think, barring any other information, the SAMS info will be safe to go off of for this? I can list any variations, I know tube gear tends to have a pretty wide tolerance.
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To keep your tubes running smoothly, make sure to dust underneath the glass as well. |
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#4
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Likely the parts in the network are very similar to the discreet parts that the network replaced... I suspect that the Sams charts would be close.
A more basic question... as the set warms up, do you hear anything from the speaker? a slight hum would be normal also slight static as the volume control is turned up and down. ![]() jr |
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#5
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Yes to the slight hum and maybe a little static, and it clicks when I switch bands, but that's about it.
__________________
To keep your tubes running smoothly, make sure to dust underneath the glass as well. |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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So it would seem that the speaker and audio stages are at least alive... Have you tried a fairly long antenna wire, perhaps 20 feet or so, to perhaps get some signal through the converter and if stages?
jr |
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#7
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Okay, sorry for the delay. I work in healthcare research so things have been crazy.
Anyway, I grabbed voltage and resistance measurements. Here's the breakdown: V1: 1: 24.5K | -9.3 VDC 2: 2.1 Ohms | 0 VAC 3: 14 Ohms | 13 VAC 4: 26 Ohms | 25 VAC 5: 16.9K | 107 VDC 6: 16.9K | 107 VDC 7: 3.7M | 0 VAC V2: 1: 3.1M | 0 VAC 2: 1 Ohm | 0 VAC 3: 26 Ohms | 25.7 VAC 4: 37.5 Ohms| 39 VAC 5: 16.9K | 107 VDC 6: 16.9K | 107 VDC 7: 182 Ohms | 252 VDC V3: 1: 13.7M | -.6 VDC 2: 2 Ohms | 0VAC 3: 14.5 Ohms | 13 VAC 4: 1.7 Ohms | 0 VAC 5: .657M | -2.3 VDC 6: .657M | -2.3 VDC 7: 242K | 69 VDC V4: 1: 300 Ohms | 9.5 VDC 2: 447K | .02 VAC 3: 85 Ohms | 90 VAC 4: 37 Ohms | 40 VAC 5: 447K | 0 VAC 6: 16K | 115 VDC 7: 15K | 123 VDC V5: 1: 16.24K | 115 VDC 2: 112.8 Ohms | 121 VAC 3: 110.3 Ohms | 117 VAC 4: NC | 0 VAC 5: 110.3 Ohms | 117 VAC 6: 15.2K | 127 VDC 7: 84.8 Ohms | 90 VAC 8: 15.2K | 127 VDC I'm noticing a few wonky resistance measurements around the 50C5, and pins 5 and 6 on both V1 and V2. Any idea where I should be looking next?
__________________
To keep your tubes running smoothly, make sure to dust underneath the glass as well. |
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#8
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When I first powered it on after my recap, it was pulling in a station (I have an in-home transmitter) that gradually faded away within the first few minutes of it being turned on. Whatever burned out happened within that time frame. I'm looking to get it back to that point.
__________________
To keep your tubes running smoothly, make sure to dust underneath the glass as well. |
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