Got a Converter Box Question

[old_coot88]

Thanks for the feedback. Mine's the 2009 Zenith. I'll crack it open and have a look. The problem it's having is - it won't turn on at all unless you first unplug it and then plug it back in, and hit the power button. It'll come on briefly (blue status light) , then goes off (red status light). Gotta keep hitting the power button over and over until it finally decides to stay on.

(Edit.) Just opened it. There's a couple of 1000 mf and a couple of 330 mf lytics. What's the best/quickest route to obtain these nowadays?

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Thanks for the feedback. Mine's the 2009 Zenith. I'll crack it open and have a look. The problem it's having is - it won't turn on at all unless you first unplug it and then plug it back in, and hit the power button. It'll come on briefly (blue status light) , then goes off (red status light). Gotta keep hitting the power button over and over until it finally decides to stay on.

(Edit.) Just opened it. There's a couple of 1000 mf and a couple of 330 mf lytics. What's the best/quickest route to obtain these nowadays?

I generally go to mouser or digikey on the web, hit up their passive components navigate to caps, then aluminum electrolytic caps, then punch up the capacitance and voltage I want, and maybe apply some more filters if I want mechanical fit or 105C extended life caps, etc.

I agree on the Zenith boxes being a good route.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Thanks for the feedback. Mine's the 2009 Zenith. I'll crack it open and have a look. The problem it's having is - it won't turn on at all unless you first unplug it and then plug it back in, and hit the power button. It'll come on briefly (blue status light) , then goes off (red status light). Gotta keep hitting the power button over and over until it finally decides to stay on.

(Edit.) Just opened it. There's a couple of 1000 mf and a couple of 330 mf lytics. What's the best/quickest route to obtain these nowadays?

Those are the symptoms I always experienced. It's the 1000mfd furthest away from the high voltage area of the power supply. The top of the cap might bulging a bit. I only changed that one, as the rest seemed to be OK.

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Those are the symptoms I always experienced. It's the 1000mfd furthest away from the high voltage area of the power supply.

Yup, actually there's two 1000 mfs on that end of the board, one @16V and the other @10V. Turned out the 10V one was bad. Replaced it and the unit works fine now. Might as well replace the rest as long as I got 'em. Thanks

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Yup, actually there's two 1000 mfs on that end of the board, one @16V and the other @10V. Turned out the 10V one was bad. Replaced it and the unit works fine now. Might as well replace the rest as long as I got 'em. Thanks

When I started reading this thread, I started to look up listings on epay. There was several makes listed. The Zeniths and Insignia units were generally missing the remotes, but were cheap. The Magnavoxes are totally "dead in the water" without some kind of a remote.
On most of them, you can use a universal remote, but you can't rescan or change the parameters, as it wont access the menus.