1949 Philips tv

[Tony F]

Can someone tell me if it is ok to replace a 1000 mmf @500V -CERAMIC- cap with a mica of the same value ? As for the application, it is C49 in the schematic here: (page 21 of the pdf or page 20 of the manual itself).
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/r..._dv1050_tv.pdf
It is located between the Video output of the 6V6 V10 (pin 3) and (pin 1) of the 6AU6 V11. The one leg has broken off. I spotted it while I have been gutting the electrolytic cans to re-stuff. I did not break it, as it is buried too deep in the chassis to get damaged.
I am also wondering about the best way to go about doing the ground connection with this style of electrolytic cap (they are all dual style). Both "positive" leads come out the center and the ground is only "friction" between the base of the can and chassis. This being a "hot" chassis of all the "cans" only 4 of them actually are insulated from the chassis. The rest are all grounded to the chassis. I thought about maybe drilling a small hole close to the outer area and using "desoldering braid" (copper) to make a friction ground like original. I'd prefer a soldered connection, but there are a lot of wires in the way, on a lot of the "cans". This style using the "nut" to tighten makes it a little more challenging to run the third wire for the negative side. It would be a lot easier if you could solder to aluminum. I will probably have to use the new "skinny" style Nichicons, as the caps I have are too large to fit back in the original cans. I know Bob A. did a video on them, so I'll have to do a search on that style. As a "plus" they are also rated at much longer hours.
I'm also using 2/56 bolts and nuts in place of the original aluminum press pins that secured the "solder lugs" on these caps.
Tony