Did I just ...... my 1950s Philco TV set?

[jr_tech]

Couple of quick comments:

1. The CRT is still under vacuum and appears to be connected correctly since the heaters are glowing.

2. The "rust colored glass pieces" that you found were pieces of the base cap cement used to glue the base cap to the CRT.

3. If you had actually broken the tip seal off of the CRT (under the locater key) you would have heard the sound of in rushing air, filling the vacuum of the CRT.

4. Is the other end of the high voltage wire (the large white wire seen in the picture of the tube layout chart) properly plugged into the CRT?

5. Logo on the back (on serial number tag) looks to me like Phillips, not Philco... could you get a close-up pix?

https://www.google.com/search?q=phil...&client=safari

jr

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

5. Logo on the back (on serial number tag) looks to me like Phillips, not Philco

The badge on the cabinet front kinda resembles the Phillips badges on a couple of my old radios.

https://www.google.com/search?q=phil...w=1422&bih=689

As noted earlier, any TV of that vintage will likely need to have paper and electrolytic capacitors replaced before it will play reliably and safely. That means replacing a few dozen parts -- rather labor intensive.

This page lists a bunch of TV restoration articles; if you skim a couple, you'll get an idea what's generally required to get this sort of TV working right:

https://antiqueradio.org/televisions.htm

If you haven't restored any tube electronics before, I'd recommend practicing on a cheap tube radio from a flea market or thrift store before tackling a television, which is more complex.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

[Notimetolooz]

Marzutra, are you sure you have to disconnect the CRT? In many older sets the CRT is mounted to the metal chassis and everything is removable in one piece.
From the looks of you pictures, I think your CRT has the type of base shown in my second picture. That is the newer design. The plastic piece can come loose without damaging the tube pin connection, so you may not have a serious problem.
EDIT: Just read what you posted while I did. Never mind this part.
Standard warning, be very careful around the CRT neck (where the base and yoke are). There is 14.5 lbs per square inch atmospheric pressure on the glass. That's about a ton per square foot. The tube could implode if the glass breaks and you could get a face full of glass shards! A pair of goggles would be a good idea. The front glass on the cabinet is called the safety glass for a reason. The CRT glass is thicker towards the front of the CRT, but that makes it heavier than you might think.
TVs are more dangerous to work on than radios because of the CRT and the higher voltages used. I'm not sure getting into this is a good idea if you are also moving at the same time.

[Marzutra]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

Marzutra, are you sure you have to disconnect the CRT? In many older sets the CRT is mounted to the metal chassis and everything is removable in one piece.
From the looks of you pictures, I think your CRT has the type of base shown in my second picture. That is the newer design. The plastic piece can come loose without damaging the tube pin connection, so you may not have a serious problem.
Standard warning, be very careful around the CRT neck (where the base and yoke are). There is 14.5 lbs per square inch atmospheric pressure on the glass. That's about a ton per square foot. The tube could implode if the glass breaks and you could get a face full of glass shards! A pair of goggles would be a good idea. The front glass on the cabinet is called the safety glass for a reason. The CRT glass is thicker towards the front of the CRT, but that makes it heavier than you might think.
TVs are more dangerous to work on than radios because of the CRT and the higher voltages used. I'm not sure getting into this is a good idea if you are also moving at the same time.

Thanks. I believe you are right. I will probably just clean up and restore the outside of the box and wait for someone - a real tech - to give it the goods.
If you were to guess, what period would you date this model Phillips? I've no information on it. Just thought it would be cool to have an old Television next to my '37 deForest Crosley floor radio and my '70s stereo...lol
I appreciate all the help and info guys. I am hoping it is something minor. I see all the tubes lighting up. The rear of the picture tube (though the front is 'dead') and sound coming through... My fingers are crossed...

[Marzutra]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

Couple of quick comments:

1. The CRT is still under vacuum and appears to be connected correctly since the heaters are glowing.

2. The "rust colored glass pieces" that you found were pieces of the base cap cement used to glue the base cap to the CRT.

3. If you had actually broken the tip seal off of the CRT (under the locater key) you would have heard the sound of in rushing air, filling the vacuum of the CRT.

4. Is the other end of the high voltage wire (the large white wire seen in the picture of the tube layout chart) properly plugged into the CRT?

5. Logo on the back (on serial number tag) looks to me like Phillips, not Philco... could you get a close-up pix?

https://www.google.com/search?q=phil...&client=safari

jr

Thanks jr. Greatly appreciated. I plugged everything back the way it was before I started 'cleaning'. I assume the large white wire is plugged in. I do not remember touching it at all but will take a look. I might just take it to a tech to service because I don't want to electrocute myself...LOL
Oh, it is a Phillips and not Philco.
The logo looks like the one I found on the net.
I was told this set was from the '50s though not sure..

@Notimetolooz - the portion that broke is portion outlined on your first picture where the narrow top joins to the wide portion before it reaches to where the prongs are. Basically that little "nub" part.
On my picture it is the small cylinder portion that slides through the "O-ring" thing. That is the portion that broke off right under the ring - which covers the break.....
Thanks Phil,
Greatly appreciated. I'll check those links out. I think I might continue with the restoration of the case and then take it to someone who knows this stuff to do a 'servicing' to it. I was under the impression that it worked 100% when I got it - which it probably did - until I decided to clean all the crap out of it. I'll open it up again to see if everything is connected ok...

Thanks N2IXK. Greatly appreciated. You are right. I just held this portion of the tube to keep it stable while I reached in to pull it back off the four bolts holding it in place.... and 'crack'.... Very brittle...
Thanks... I'll keep posting with updates.

I didn't even see a broken wire Mr. Jukebox..lol Woops...

Oh, I uploaded a closer picture of the back with the model number. Yes... Definitely Phillips and not Philco...