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  #11  
Old 07-17-2015, 11:33 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 1,189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
Leave the CRT attached to the front piece, there are a couple of sliding latches that hold the front to the bottom, if you release them you can separate them and slide the tube and mask forward out of the yoke.

The posts that hold the CRT to the face are fragile, I've repaired them with Epoxy and using a slightly longer screw to extend past the break, of course not too long or it will poke out the front!
That's funny because that's exactly the same way mine was repaired it had the post repaired with epoxy and had a larger sloted bit screw installed into the hole but then some how that broke again then the retention spring was just sitting on top of the picture tube. so then I just reattached the retention spring with the screw into what was remaining of the mounting post and its holding pretty well.

anyways I'm still wanting to know what kinds of capacitors to use in place of the old radial leaded "good-all" style caps in the unit because the modern radial lead caps don't look like the original ones anymore as far as mounting wise goes because the leads are too far apart.

Below is a picture I took of the unit since I took all the tubes out and reseated them, notice how its definitely got a nice bright picture now and the only issue with it now is that the bottom of the screen is folded onto itself and doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the screen, I've also noticed that there are some small horizontal lines that go across the screen that are barely noticable in certain lighting scenes.
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File Type: jpg DSCN2531.jpg (33.6 KB, 24 views)

Last edited by Captainclock; 07-17-2015 at 11:55 PM.
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