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  #1  
Old 05-29-2014, 09:50 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coshi View Post
Hello again,
Thanks everyone so far I've ordered the paper caps but not the electrolytic filter caps. (There too expensive right now.) I was wondering if I could feed the set 110v DC untell I can replace the filter caps. Or would this damage something?
Absolutely NOT!
It's strictly an AC, transformer powered chassis.
No choice, but to replace the electrolytic caps.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:16 AM
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Coshi Coshi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Absolutely NOT!
It's strictly an AC, transformer powered chassis.
No choice, but to replace the electrolytic caps.
Thanks for getting back to me so fast. Right on I'll replace the electrolytic condensers then. (I'm NOT going to try the DC thing. since its dangerous) But could you tell me why its bad?
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:35 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Coshi View Post
Thanks for getting back to me so fast. Right on I'll replace the electrolytic condensers then. (I'm NOT going to try the DC thing. since its dangerous) But could you tell me why its bad?
Transformers are straight AC devices. Sixty polarity alternations a second.
Google AC power. There's a good explanation there.
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:45 AM
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Coshi Coshi is offline
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OK, Update time, I've got the picture tube cleaned safely put back into the Cabinet I put foam rubber insulating strips around the safety glass and to cushion the bottom of the picture tube.

But I found that the HV lead that connects to the edge of the picture tube isnt getting good connection to the edge of the screen. I have it taped to it with a peace of rubber tape, How SHOULD it be connected? I'll get a picture of it soon as I can.




Last edited by Coshi; 05-30-2014 at 07:07 AM. Reason: Missing picture
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:54 AM
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cwmoser cwmoser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coshi View Post
OK, Update time, I've got the picture tube cleaned safely put back into the Cabinet I put foam rubber insulating strips around the safety glass and to cushion the bottom of the picture tube.

But I found that the HV lead that connects to the edge of the picture tube isnt getting good connection to the edge of the screen. I have it taped to it with a peace of rubber tape, How SHOULD it be connected? I'll get a picture of it soon as I can.




I have a few round screen TV's - but not one exactly like yours.
Mine, the HV Anode lead typically clips to the metal CRT bell housing.
I assume that your CRT housing - the black colored part is metal.

DO NOT TOUCH that metal housing -- there is approximately 12K volts
on it. AND, when you remove power, you need TO DISCHARGE that voltage.
One way to discharge it is to take an insulated screw driver and a clip
lead with alligator clips on both ends of the clip lead. Connect one end
to the metal chassis and the other to the metal part of the screwdriver.
When you unplug your TV, then hold the insulated part of the screw driver
with the clip lead attached and touch the HV Anode wire. In essence you
are grounding out to the chassis the voltage on the capacitance in the circuit.
Do this a couple more times as the voltage sometimes builds back up.
I hate getting shocked :-)

Here are photos showing how the HV Anode wire connects in my Zenith
and Raytheon televisions:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg AnodeConnection-800.JPG (101.8 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg SideViewWith16AP4-2-640.jpg (48.5 KB, 31 views)
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1950 Zenith Porthole - "Lincoln"

Last edited by cwmoser; 05-30-2014 at 10:58 AM.
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2014, 02:56 PM
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Bill Cahill Bill Cahill is offline
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That lead should go between one of the metal spring clips, and, the metal bell of the tube. This set uses a number of hv capacitors in the hv cage, and, underneath. Value, and, voltage are very important.
As said, the electrolytics are no good. I can see hum patterns on the screen telling me the electrolytics are shot.

This is a 117Volt, 60 cycle ac only set. If you try using it on dc you will destroy the power transformer.
The KCS 47's don't usually use the older white chokes that went bad. These chokes are more reliable.
This set works on very high dc voltages, and, I would highly recommend you get someone to help that knows what they are doing. And, yes, unfortunately, they are not a highly reliable set. I have one I've bben restoring, and, every time it acts like it's finished, something else goes wrong.
It's worth saving, but, it will need a lot of careful restoration.
Good luck.
Bill Cahilll
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2014, 11:15 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coshi View Post
OK, Update time, I've got the picture tube cleaned safely put back into the Cabinet I put foam rubber insulating strips around the safety glass and to cushion the bottom of the picture tube.

But I found that the HV lead that connects to the edge of the picture tube isnt getting good connection to the edge of the screen. I have it taped to it with a peace of rubber tape, How SHOULD it be connected? I'll get a picture of it soon as I can.



It's been ages, since I worked on one of those.
IIRC, the anode lead is clipped or connected to one of the spring contacts, located around the front of the CRT.
They also used to use a foam gasket, that crumbled after a while, to keep the dust out, between the CRT front and the safety glass.
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