Restoring a 1963 Admiral ctc-12 clone

[kramden66]

I've replaced a couple film caps even though they are not leaky and might replace a couple others to see if there is a change , sad thing is it just happened , wasn't like this when I first got it running , I replaced all the electrolytics , also got a good 12BY7 , my previous had very low emissions so I'm hoping it too wlll correct things or maybe was the culpret.

I still wonder should I check all those resistor looking capacitors on the if board or at least the ones near the 6AW8 ? if yes and one is bad a mica cap will work there as long as it is the same picofarads value ?

I really want to put the thing back together and watch it

mike

[kramden66]

Well the new 12BY7 helped a little but it still has the ghost issue and a smearing in white from the ghosting almost looks like ice in the white objects , the ghosting doesn't change when the tuner is adjusted but the smear caused by the ghost changes when tuned back too far and the color wont work ( pictures are to show ghosts and the smear and the changing of the smear ) get no color i , I jumped the delay line and saw no change or no effect , I guess you have to disconnect one end , I accidently disconnected the ground to the delay line , things looked odd and there was no brightness control , I found the cause of the bright green line when in service mode - too much kine bias.
I also checked the hot cathode with a .47 cap hooked to each end of the meter wires, I see 190 ma

mike

[Tubejunke]

Originally Posted by kramden66

I also checked the hot cathode with a .47 cap hooked to each end of the meter wires, I see 190 ma

mike

So, is this the final verdict on checking that current. I'm curious because I am getting ready to put my new horizontal linearity coil in my Zenith and I want to measure the cathode current. I have never read about putting a cap on each meter lead.