GE roundie

[DaveWM]

I put a 3.3k power resistor in series with the existing 12k, put it all back and touched up the eff coil again, now its about 187ma had to switch to the strong HOtube as the weak one resulted in too narrow a sweep (and about 165ma).

I have to double check the HV and make sure it regulating, the color seemed a bit off and the pic was not as good. I suspect my HV is down. If so I will undo the screen resistor change and check again.

[DaveWM]

HV holding right at 25kv regardless of brightness or scene changes. The tint is a bit odd, it seems to change a bit from left to right. I suspect its the odd ball GE color circuit (no color osc). Maybe the lower voltage from the tap is effecting it, but I did not notice it on lower line voltage. hmmm have to look at the schematic some more. Maybe a weak burst amp or something like that.

The eff coil is still WAY out nearly out of the form to get the peak. I did not change those caps (the one across the coil and two that go to ground from each end of the coil).

I noticed a very slight foldover on the right edge that was not there before. I was going to adj the coil just a bit to see if I could correct that.

Oh one more thing, the HOtube grid voltage is now about -64v increased the neg voltage about 8v.

what I may end up doing is wiring up the chassis so I can switch out the extra resistance on the screen. I would like to add a low/high switch on the back, I have this on some of my sylvania sets (for the PWR xfromer tap).

[DaveWM]

after a considerable about of futzing with it, I decided to return the tap to the orig spot, this will boost the overall voltage, which should help the CRT as its only ok. I will leave the screen dropping resistor in place. I think this will get me to about 195-200ma and temps in the 120-140 range once the fly cage is closed back up. the only other thing I did after the screen and those couple of plate load resistors and the coupling cap for the HO tube as to replace the .47 filter cap on the AGC, the old one way cracked around the terminals, not sure how that happened, but I figured it may have compromised the seal.

I plan to try a new lin coil in it at some point to see if that has any effect but that will be a later day. I really want to get back on that CTC-7AA

[DaveWM]

so I am putzing around with it somemore and I notice the horz scan lines have a slight wiggle in the last couple of inches on the far right side. Damn...

keep looking at it, try a new H osc tube, reset the horz osc coil (ground the test point a set for float by), no sine wave coil on the GE to fool with. still there.

get scope, has a funny looking bump on the flat top, but that may just be the scope picking something up. looking at the set in the mirror hmmm.

Take a break, start up the movie again, odd some french words (part of the movie warnings are in french for some reason), any way I did not know the french read from right to left, its been a while since I took french in HS but I do not remember that...

next come the Brothers Warner imblem, wait thats supposed tot be WB not BW..

Duh horz yoke hooked up backwards. all the time I was looking in the mirror and it looked right. I reverse the horz leads on the yoke and the little squiggle is gone. Sometimes the easy stuff will get you.

I am going to put it away now before I break something. The HO tube is at 195ma so I hope my overheating fly is done. I will get a new lin coil and replace that later to see if that makes the lin adjustment point more reasonable looking, but I have had my fill of this one for a while.