Rca ctc-5

[snelson903]

thoughs are pretty cool looking ,make good fit in a restuffed can.

[DaveWM]

Those are the new ones that Mouser has, yes the fit very well, are 105c IIRC they are 12mm wide, you can get a 4 cap can done no problem.

The main thing is how fast you can do a can , those 2 can caps take 10min tops from start to finish, figure about 5min tops per cap. Its much faster than my old way of removing the old cap, and prob as fast as doing under the chassis installation if you take into account good wiring practices (like term strips, no flying lead stuff). I would say its faster than if you had the correct twist lock can since you do not have to unsolder anything.

[DaveWM]

did the remaining two filter cans, very easy method again. going to lay off it for a while now, then will get on the paper caps. There are quite a few that are point to point (the chorma section is NOT on a pcb) On those I am prob just going to go pig tail method. The tube sockets are not the best quality and I don't want to goof them up trying to unsolder. The others on the bottom have some coils involved so again pig tail. I know some purest think this is sloppy work, but I think its less invasive, and since I have no way of determining the operating status, I dont want to create a problem.

[wa2ise]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

On those I am prob just going to go pig tail method. The tube sockets are not the best quality and I don't want to goof them up trying to unsolder. The others on the bottom have some coils involved so again pig tail. I know some purest think this is sloppy work, but I think its less invasive, and since I have no way of determining the operating status, I dont want to create a problem.

I do this, for this reason, all the time. Just have the pigtiled lead follow the same pattern of lead dress as the old part had. That is, keeping the splice a straight path and not creating a bent pattern.

TV repairmen of the day would do this, they didn't want to spend extra time on a job, and also didn't want to risk breaking something.

[DaveWM]

ok all the wax caps under the chassis are now done, just a few on the pcb that mounts on the back and then on to the rest of the PCB. I replaced the 2 .47's in the flyback cage, dusted it gently, it "looks" ok for whatever that is worth.

By doing all the Point to Point stuff 1st it the hard part, the PCB caps are a cinch.

I do as you said, keep the part in the same location and keep the lead dress as original as possible. Had no breakage of parts in the recapping.

At this rate I would hope I can get the balance of it done before next weekend.

[DaveWM]

oh and the 22pf C66 on the article is still there (plate to cathode), so it looks like they only did the cathode bypass change from the cathode to the contrast pot and electrolytic.

[DaveWM]

At 1st it seemed a LOT worse, poor color (weak) lousy convergence even in static, then I decided to check the purity, cut off G and B put on a blank channel, big green blob in the middle, wow was it jacked up. I did a quick purity correction got it better and then back to the channel. color back strong, and convergence seems a lot better, but I am getting tired so time to quit.

[DaveWM]

just keeps getting better, but now I think I am getting a weak RF tube, starting to get some snow. Anyway while adj the focus why not just grab the focus pot shaft plastic piece rather than fooling with a screw driver......zapppp.... ok not such a bright idea will not be doing that again.

[DaveWM]

convergence is tricky, the static adj are very touchy right around the correct spot, I am guessing a dirty pot but maybe wear. I am able to get it but its tough.