Mid-'60s Zenith Console Doesn't Turn On

[ctc17]

I have a combo with that chassis and I though it used fuses...I thought breakers were and rca thing. hmmmm, ill have to dig the service book out on it later and look.

Is it a round or rectangular tube set?

[Jemascola]

Originally Posted by ctc17

I have a combo with that chassis and I though it used fuses...I thought breakers were and rca thing. hmmmm, ill have to dig the service book out on it later and look.

Is it a round or rectangular tube set?

Rectangular.

[ctc17]

OK, it does have a breaker but its on the secondary, so like everyone else says cord or power switch.

I believe this was Zeniths first rectangular set, It wasn't cheap! I also feel these are some of the most complicated things ever built. One really has to admire how much work went into this to build it.

It can produce a decent picture, the picture on mine is ok and I have done little to no work on it. Parts can still be found too.

[DaveWM]

just checked does not seem to have any fuse or breaker in the primary of the power trans, so all you need to set get a digital multimeter set to ohms, connect test leadt to the the plug pronges and see if its open, should be just a few ohms. if you dont have a DMM there are lots of other ways to check for continuity, just a flashlight bulb and some wire are all you really need, you just need to see if its open, then figure out if its the switch, line cord, or interlock connection.

if its open at the end of the plug, check again at the interlock, if still open jump the switch on the back of the volume control (again no power everything is unpluged). if that does not do it then you may have a open connection somewhere in that part of the circuit. I just recently had a TV that had a bad solder joint right at the interlock. wiggling the plug and the connection at the interlock generally show this up. Also line cords often open up right at the plug due to pulling and bending that will break the wires inside the insulation.

[DaveWM]

did not see CTC-17s post as I was typing in my rather long winded post, so we both see the same deal, no fuse no breaker in primary to go bad.

[Jemascola]

Thank you very much for the information, everyone

Here's an update on the situation. I used a fuse tester on both the cord and the TV separately. Separately, the tester indicated a complete circuit on both things. When I put them together, though, it took a little manipulating of the power cable to get a green light (a complete circuit). Now, here's where things get a little more interesting. I plug in the TV, and sure enough, I do see the channel numbers glowing, but it doesn't seem like the TV is even trying to turn on. I don't hear any humming or see any picture. Very interesting.

[DaveWM]

The set still has value even if it does not work, but it will take a vintage TV person to repair it and use it. You do run a risk of damage to the set by trying it out this way, as it really should be looked at by someone that has knowledge of this type of electronic gear. So you best be would be to see if you can sell it or have a member here that it close to you check it out and give you some advise on how to proceed.

it should take about 30 seconds for the tube to warm up. there is of course the posssibility that there is another problem. While frequently the mid 60 zeniths will work, there are also times where there is a problem. If it does not make any sound or picture and the tubes are glowing in the back (peek thru the holes in the back cover and see if you see a bunch of orange glowing dots, those are the vacuum tubes) after 30 seconds then you have a bigger problem. You should not continue after 30 seconds of testing with no results.

[DaveWM]

one last thing you can try is pushing the red circuit breaker after you have the power cord worked out. If you want I can talk you thru it, pm me if you want to do that, its easier than a lot of back and forth typing