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  #1  
Old 10-21-2011, 01:57 AM
Kevin Kuehn's Avatar
Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Great score and great job on the CRT base I didn't know you could get black epoxy or did you add your own pigment ?
Thanks. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the CRT will show a little life.

I did put some pigment in the epoxy. I also mixed in some very fine milled fiberglass for strenth and to thicken up the epoxy. The stuff just loves to slide downhill.

How bout I run the cabinet down for a quickie refinish?

I'm not really feeling motivated to make sawdust.
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  #2  
Old 10-21-2011, 02:40 AM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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Hmmm, I wonder how well that would work to fill voids in broken bakelite ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
... How bout I run the cabinet down for a quickie refinish?

I'm not really feeling motivated to make sawdust.
That actually looks like a fairly easy refinish. That old lacquer just mels off with even mild strippers. Then some grain filler, minwax red mahogany stain and some lacquer. Looks like the controls area is in good enough shape to just touch up and preserve the decals.

Not that I'm up for doing it - at least not until next year. It's way too cold

BTW What CRT is that ?
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2011, 03:05 AM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Hmmm, I wonder how well that would work to fill voids in broken bakelite ?



That actually looks like a fairly easy refinish. That old lacquer just mels off with even mild strippers. Then some grain filler, minwax red mahogany stain and some lacquer. Looks like the controls area is in good enough shape to just touch up and preserve the decals.

Not that I'm up for doing it - at least not until next year. It's way too cold

BTW What CRT is that ?
Yeah, I've filled Bakelite with epoxy. But in the past I actually sanded some Bakelite off the bottom of the cabinet and used that as color/filler. You could also grab just about any trashed Bakelite cabinet and grind Bakelite off of that. But I agree, the Blendal could work very well, at least once you get the color matching down. Ideally you'd want to use finishing resin epoxy for this; it cures much harder and sands more easily.

I assume the CRT is a 17AP4, but I've not found an actual number on it yet. There was a D on the end of the base- I assume that was for Dumont?

Depending on how the CRT tests, I may get motivated and refinish the cabinet this winter. I do have access to a nice abandoned shop that my Dad left us a couple years back...at least as long as Mom stays there, it's available. So far she insists on keeping heat in the place. Says she doesn't want his tools to get cold. I can't wait to get older...

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 10-21-2011 at 03:08 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-21-2011, 09:43 AM
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Penthode Penthode is offline
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Your set is a great find. I just picked up an RA112-A3 with exactly the same chassis except it has the 19AP4 round tube. This is my first set with the mallory "Inductuner". I did a google search on the inductuner and it seems it still is a current Mallory product!

http://www.duracap.com/inductuners/vhf400series.htm

The CRT in your set looks all glass and so I thought it would be either a 17AP4 or a 17BP4?

I have the same cabinet issues and it is too cold for refinishing so I'll concentrate on the chassis this fall.

It will be interesting to compare problems with these chassis's.
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2011, 11:42 AM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penthode View Post
Your set is a great find. I just picked up an RA112-A3 with exactly the same chassis except it has the 19AP4 round tube. This is my first set with the mallory "Inductuner". I did a google search on the inductuner and it seems it still is a current Mallory product!

http://www.duracap.com/inductuners/vhf400series.htm

The CRT in your set looks all glass and so I thought it would be either a 17AP4 or a 17BP4?

I have the same cabinet issues and it is too cold for refinishing so I'll concentrate on the chassis this fall.

It will be interesting to compare problems with these chassis's.
That is pretty interesting about the Mallory tuner.

I figured our sets were about the same, mine also has the video out to color adaptor you posted about earlier.

I'm sure you're probably aware that Phil Nelson has a most excellent RA113-B5 restoration on his website. http://antiqueradio.org/DuMontRA-113Television.htm. Part of the reason I went and picked this one up- It's Phil's fault.

Would love to see any pictures of your RA112 set.
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  #6  
Old 10-21-2011, 01:04 PM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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Thanks for the compliment. There's a lot to like about this TV.

I corresponded with Tom Albrecht about the CRT type, and his conclusion is that DuMont began with the 17AP4 but soon switched to 17BP4. On my set, there's a rather crude hole in the back cover, to make room for the slightly longer 17BP4 CRT. No dome over the hole, however.



On his set, there is a shallow dome covering that hole, and the tube label inside the cabinet indicates 17BP4.

I'd like to get a strong 17BP4A some day. Mine's watchable, but weak.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Last edited by Phil Nelson; 10-21-2011 at 01:26 PM.
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2011, 01:28 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson View Post
Thanks for the compliment. There's a lot to like about this TV.

I corresponded with Tom Albrecht about the CRT type, and his conclusion is that DuMont began with the 17AP4 but soon switched to 17BP4. On my set, there's a hole in the back cover, to make room for the slightly longer 17BP4 CRT. No dome over the hole, however. On his set, there is a shallow dome covering that hole, and the tube label inside the cabinet indicates 17BP4.

I'd like to get a strong 17BP4A some day. Mine's watchable, but weak.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html
My back also has the shallow metal dome, so likely a 17BP4. Where would that normally be marked on a DuMont CRT? I don't see a tube label in my cabinet.

I currently have my B&K 466 cooking the filament at 6.3V. I'll go test it after a couple hours baking.
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