Mighty Monarch of The Air

[vts1134]

I don't have another 100uf cap to replace C1B, nor do I have a capacitor tester. What I did do was fire the set up and take a visual check, then remove the cap that is in place and fire it up again. There was no change at all in the picture. I'll get another 100uf cap and try swapping it in.

[VintagePC]

Originally Posted by vts1134

There was no change at all in the picture. I'll get another 100uf cap and try swapping it in.

Seems to confirm what everyone says... Fingers crossed once you get that replacement!

[vts1134]

New cap same problem . Might R3 be the problem? I've tested it for impedance but could it fail in another way? I'm going to try again to get the real replacement for T2 to eliminate that from the equation also.

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by vts1134

New cap same problem .

Well doggone. Did you connect the + end of the cap directly to pin 8, and the other end to ground? (Some foreign-sourced electrolytics have an arrow pointing to the [-] end of the unit, which can trick you as to which polarity it's signifying.)

Might R3 be the problem?

Not likely if it measures (approx.) 5K and shows no dead spots or drop-outs throughout its rotation.

I'm going to try again to get the real replacement for T2 to eliminate that from the equation also.

[vts1134]

R3 reads 5k on the high side and just a couple of ohms on the low side. There are no dropouts or dead spots in the rotation. C1B used to connect to pin 8 with a wire. I removed the wire since I was no longer using a multi stage can and now have the electrolytic directly on pin 8 and the negative right to ground. Here's hoping a new T2 will be the answer.

[VintagePC]

If you have the proper resistors to match the new T2's resistance to the original, you can try that too. I doubt it would work, but if it does, it might save a few bucks on trying to locate a matching part elsewhere.

[vts1134]

New transformer same problem . I will return to the schematic for component by component tracing soon.