![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
I worked in a shop in the early 1980's that had alot of these stick rectifiers in sets we repaired. We used them because the new tubes we were finding (Lindal, etc) were not working out for us. We never had one fail. That said, that was 30 years ago. ECG (Sylvania,) and RCA SK-series were the main semiconductor suppliers that we used. I dont know about now.
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Make sure you have a filament supply for the 1G3 - it looks like it's been removed - it should enter the HV cup from the same side as the 2nd Anode lead exits.
Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET 22YRS (Avionics/Cal) CET-Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Although, I've decided to see what kind of KV I'll get out of the stick diode. If the voltages are acceptable, I think I'm going to just leave it. I still have about half of the resistors to test, and I'm still waiting on the caps to arrive, and I'm going to restuff the cans, so I've got plenty to keep me busy for the foreseeable future. Oh yeah, and I haven't even mentioned the cosmetics. Going with a "non-standard" color scheme and grille cloth, (once again, WAF raising gesture). I also used an electrostatic rust removal technique on the rusty parts of the chassis. It worked reasonably well, and now I am just sanding for uniformity and polishing. I'm still considering painting the chassis just for the rust prevention aspect. I'll post some pictures as things progress. For now, here is the color/grille cloth scheme.
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|