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#11
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and what concerns me is not even a hint of green. but if you want to know if your green tube is bad or not, your going to have to make an effort to do so. such as "stretch and reroute" those wires. Ive done it on this projector, and i know you can too. Like i said previously, My projector makes no noise, other than the normal whine of the sweep circuits, like you would hear in any TV. Any other noise is considered NOT normal and should be looked at seriously.
I got my projector when i was your age, and i was your age back in 2003. But ive come to learn alot with electronics since then. (i hold a degree in electronics engineering, though unemployed). Before you go chasing around yourself in a gutter like a chicken with its head cut off. Your going to have to pull each board individually. I would start with the power supply. Then i would start with the sweep, I would then inspect the passive convergence module in the center of the unit. Then i would move on the video process board, which is the board to your right if your facing the projector with lenses in front. You could be missing a green drive, and have a corrupted blue drive. possibilites are endless here. youll have to go through each one individually and rule it out on a checklist. This is all basic troubleshooting. When i mean pull these boards, I mean look at the underside for obviousness. Bad solder, ESR test all electrolytics, etc etc etc. Even might go as far as reading out all the resistors, and do a static check of each transistor and diode. Once you deemed the board is good, place it back into the unit. and check the next one. Also the CRT neck connection boards, dont rule these out either. zenith is known to have resistors change in value, and open on these boards, that supply critical voltages to the CRT guns. THIS IS WHY you need to swap places with CRTs to rule out the CRT and save you some headache. IF electronics is something your going to get into, your going to HAVE to learn these things, and learn to do them. (and correctly btw, ive got scars from my mistakes as a kid). This is pretty much all i have to say at this point. When you decide to start putting some strong effort into doing these things, then let me know, and i can help you further in your endeavor. My method of trying to figure shit out, and your parents may think your nuts if you try this, but I always pace back and forth in the room talking to myself, as if i was explaining something to another person. and when i do this, i usually catch shit that i forgot about, or overlooked. and then from there, i can figure things out. History on my projector: My projector was a VIP Mark 3 from lafayette. rebranded PV800 basically. The projector came from my local school district, badly battered and abused from students. the blue CRT glass was cracked, and fluid all over the bottom of the unit and tube. some of the fluid got into the HV wires and caused an arc, which shorted out the Horizontal output transistor, or HOT. So, yea i wasnt much off from you. hehe. first, i had to remove the gell in front of the cracked glass, and then take the blue CRT away from the metal manafold, which called for cutting off the silicone holding it into place. i then extracted the CRT, cleaned out the fluid, removed the glass and the RTV that held it into place. i never replaced the glass and fluid, i just stuck the CRT back into place once the mess was cleaned up. I proceeded to replacing the HOT. The set would fire up, and shut right back down. and this was due to a failed HV splitter off the flyback. I had to remove all the epoxy, which was NOT fun at ALL.. in the least bit. and i found the short in the windings. i rewound just that portion of the block, and dumped some 5 minute epoxy back into the block. seveal tubes of it. hehe. Then, the set fired up and worked perfectly fine. and has played since this day, and i ended up finding another splitter, so i just replaced it. |
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