Align your space command remote chassis with ease!

[drh4683]

I have been keeping my eye open for a simpson 407 remote aligner for years on ebay. Never seen one show up. I figured it was the only tool to use to properly align the detector coils on a space command remote chassis. If you ever replace the caps which normally go bad, you need to touch up the coils. Ive used the actual clicker to try to find the most resonant spot on the coils. It works, but its not good enough for maximum sensitivity alignment. It occured to me that I might be able to modify an ultrasonic electronic remote to match the freqs of the original space command remotes. I have a good number of space command manuals and looked at one for the space command 1000 to find out what the factory freqs were supposed to be. I have SP-24 which covers the F line for 1975. To my amazement, there was a section on the very back of the manual explaining how to modify a space command 1000 remote to match the freqs of the mechanical remote for alignment purposes. It was also noted that the the simpson remote aligner was "NO LONGER AVAILABLE", so thats been obsolete since at lease '75. That would explain why they are so hard to find.
But, this modification works perfectly and quite simple. this is only explained in the 1975 space command manual. Later volumes show how to align the remote, but not alter it for older models. One or more of these four fundamental frequencies are on ALL mechanical space command remotes unless it has the blue button in place of the orange button on the newer remotes which means it uses different frequency (40.74 kHz), which was not introduced until 1976.

The modification required only 7 resistors, which are unique values so you might have to special order them. The space command 1000 remotes are a dime a dozen, so it was no problem getting a spare remote to modify. It calls for 16, 24, 200, and 1K , 1/4W 5% resistors as shown in the schematic. I used 2% in this case for more stability. You are to replace the SIP resistor and replace with these. Fortunately, zenith already had the resistors locations ready to go on the PC board including the numbers. It was simply remove the sip, install the new resistors and align the coil and the trimmer for the highest and lowest freqs. the rest of the freqs fell into place. Looking at the 3rd photo, the remote in front is the modified one, while the one above it is original with the sip resistor which can be seen as R13. It is also necessary to label the remote with the changed freqs. Also to note, the new freqs do not match the function of those originally labeled on the face of the remote.


Once you have this made, all you need to do is find the transistor in the detector circuit of the frequency that needs adjustment and clip your negative meter lead to it and positive to gound. Set your meter to 50 VDC scale. Hit the remote and align for minimum voltage peak. Its that simple and the remote works perfect after that. You will be rewarded with a remote chassis that is sensitive and responds from extreme distances from the set. Not that thats so important, but its especially important if you like to skip channels. By having the chassis aligned properly, the relay should stay closed with the remote button held down for a couple seconds thus skiping channels. Also helpful for adjusting the tint if you have a space command 600.

I was surprized how much better you can get the remote to work, even if its working ok as it is. Build one of these and keep your space commanders in top notch shape!