Sets that you feel sorry for.....

[Kamakiri]

Originally Posted by wa2ise

But the 3JC6 wants 600ma heater current and the 4JC6 wants 450ma. The 3JC6 is likely barely functioning. I'd use the 6JC6 (300ma) with a 42 ohm 1W resistor connected across its heater pins. That makes up for 150 ma to make it total 450ma.

....or I could just spend under $5 shipped and buy a tube on eBay

I needed something to power the set up with to see where I was at, and it's at least working. I'll pick one up the next time I find I need tubes, from an eBay seller that has all the numbers I need. I don't suspect it's going to get used a lot right now.

Thanks for clarifying that for me though. Shows that the 4JC6 is a 2nd pix IF. Risking any long term damage by leaving the sucker in there?

[truetone36]

I've got a Philco-Ford 12" b/w set and a late 60's Zenith b/w portable that were literally buried under 3 feet of debris in a house I recently tore down. They're sitting under my workbench out in the shed now. Most people would've probably tossed them, but then again us TV guys aren't like most people, are we?

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by truetone36

I've got a Philco-Ford 12" b/w set and a late 60's Zenith b/w portable that were literally buried under 3 feet of debris in a house I recently tore down. They're sitting under my workbench out in the shed now. Most people would've probably tossed them, but then again us TV guys aren't like most people, are we?

For sure. I've got a lot of stuff most people would have tossed.

[DavGoodlin]

I've got three 19" BW sets, two Admirals and a Zenith, from 1969-70.
Of course they work OK and the CRTs are fairly bright, just emailed another friend who likes old stuff, fishing for a new home.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Eric H

Yep, but the nice sound is causing the cabinet to resonate because the plastic channel that's supposed to be between the metal and the plastic was shot, it vibrates so badly it's not watchable. I'll have to find something to substitute it. It's not something that shows, it just tightens up the interface between the metal and plastic.

IIRC, the cabinet surround and the back is metal, but the front is plastic.
I just wonder if you could find some of the smallest plastic tubing and slit it to fit. If it's not visible, it could be in shorter lengths. Maybe wire insulation?

[wa2ise]

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

the 4JC6 is a 2nd pix IF. Risking any long term damage by leaving the sucker in there?

Not really for the short term. But that IF stage won't have much gain, but that's not really an issue today with no more over the air analog NTSC stations.

[Kamakiri]

Kind of a moot point, right now

http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...88&postcount=4

[Robert Grant]

I have a 1972 20/19" Zenith that became the only TV "save" cause (a relative told me it would be thrown out if I did not take it).

I replaced most of the tubes (cheap enough), but could not quite get rid of the vertical stretching at the top, the horizontal foldover, the buzzing when anything white was in the picture, and the poor alignment.

I tried to tweak the alignment, but the ferrite fell out of the coil, and it's in a "surrounded" part of the chassis that could only be accessed but cutting the chassis apart. Not worth the effort.

[john f]

I had pity on this little guy today. Samsung from 1984. Found it sitting in the snow upside down by an apartment building dumpster where I was doing a service disconnect. Got it home and cleaned it up after baking in my truck all day. Static from the speaker, but no raster or even audio if I give it a signal. There's a big 470uf 200v electrolytic bulged out at the top begging to be changed.

[Username1]

Nice looking little tv..... Let us know how she turns out.....
I think it's really bad that people don't gain some appreciation for something that has served them well for years, and that might just need a minor repair for it to do so for many more years....

[john f]

Will do. Model number is CT-333KA if anyone has a schematic. The voltages printed on the board near the flyback are all off from what they test at.

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by john f

I had pity on this little guy today. Samsung from 1984. Found it sitting in the snow upside down by an apartment building dumpster where I was doing a service disconnect. Got it home and cleaned it up after baking in my truck all day. Static from the speaker, but no raster or even audio if I give it a signal. There's a big 470uf 200v electrolytic bulged out at the top begging to be changed.

Dang... the 200v caps on two of my junk boards are both 680uf. The third board I don't even see a big cap on. Hopefully you have a replacement already.

Anyways, this 1991 RCA-built Sears console came into my store, I figured it would be recycled if I didn't buy it. It's just retro-looking enough for my decor, and I figure using it most of the time will save wear and tear on my older sets.

[dieseljeep]

I would use the 680uf.
The junk boards are probably from a larger screen set.

[Countryford]

Several months ago I came across a Craigslist ad for this guy who sells repurposed radio cabinets. I called him and asked what he does with the componets. He stated that he normally gets the cabinets with them already removed. He also said that if he came across any he would let me know. Last week he notified me, that he had an old Westinghouse TV that he just removed from the cabinet. I went over to his place and got the tv componets. He showed me the cabinet and it was beautiful. He said he gets $350 for the cabinets and that if I wanted it, he would sell it to me for that price. Anyways I left with the TV and phonograph. I might get it working and use it as a work bench TV.

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I would use the 680uf.
The junk boards are probably from a larger screen set.

Yup, both were 27" screen sets. Why would a 680uf 200v cap work in a smaller set that was made with a 470uf 200v cap?