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#1
10-12-2011, 02:33 AM
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Local Craigslist
I can't tell what this is.. I want to say Motorola Quasar.. They only want $10 and it needs repair.. I don't know if this set is Solid state or vacuum tube
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#2
10-12-2011, 08:31 AM
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thats a zenith chromacolor II from the mid 70s.should be a vertical chassis.great set,grab it!
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#4
10-12-2011, 10:47 AM
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I've only seen a couple with this control layout; but, it is a Zenith CCII. Probably a '74 or '75 model. Probably a vertical chassis; but, could be a late run flat chassis. Whatever it is, it's worth $10 and should be saved.
Here is a youtube video of Zenith with this control panel. http://www.youtube.com/user/retrocha.../2/ooNonQG3n2s
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#5
10-12-2011, 11:57 AM
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yes,it is a chromacolor II.the tuning knob slides to all the controls.very nice,rare model.i had a chance to pick one up 2 years ago and passed it up.identical set.love to have it!
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#7
10-12-2011, 03:36 PM
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Thanks for the info guys.. It looks like the same set retrochad has on youtube, Im going to to get it tomorrow.. It's a whooping hour and a half away and I have to use a friend, as that will not fit in my car.. I hope it's no bigger or not much bigger than my Motorola Quasar console, than It might be a problem fitting into his caravan.. I asked the lady what the problem with the set is, and what it does, she said it worked perfect until she had work done on the house and she went to turn it on, and it turned it's self off, and now it doesn't power on...
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#8
10-12-2011, 10:05 PM
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It could be as simple as a tripped circuit breaker on the back of the set. There's also a big, oil filled cap in the power supply that will short and trip the circuit breaker, along with shorted power supply diodes. Also, the horizontal output transistor can short and trip the circuit breaker. When the HOT shorts, it's usually due to a shorted tripler; which, can also take out the flyback. Another cause of a shorted HOT is a dried up electrolytic cap in the horizontal driver circuit.
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#10
10-13-2011, 12:01 AM
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Maybe the cheater cord got pulled halfway out or not making a connection.. I found a set in the garbage before that had the brightness turned all the way down.. Probably some kid played with the controls and they turned the set on afterwards and thought it was broken.. It's a young girl that sounds like she's in her 20s or 30s, that's selling this set, and she probably knows nothing about it, or just doesn't care to look into the problem. I'm not going to count the chickens before they hatch.. I better make sure not to even try it, because if it did power on, she may change her mind or sell it much higher..
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#11
10-13-2011, 12:48 AM
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Yeah, just show up, act like you're in a hurry, hand her the $10, load it, and leave.
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#12
10-13-2011, 01:38 PM
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Yeah, works like a charm!
 Quote:
__________________
Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold!
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#13
10-13-2011, 06:33 PM
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I just got this set home, Opened the back and noticed someone else has already looked into this set, the sucksion cup has been removed from the picture tube, and HV area where the flyback transformer is located looks to be some burnt up caps.. It's the same Zenith chromacolor II set as retrochad has in that video...
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#14
10-13-2011, 08:11 PM
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Is yours an "E" or "F" line chassis? Also, make sure it has the orange four lead safety cap below the horizontal output heatsink. If it has the white cap, you need to replace that before you attempt to power it up. The white cap will suddenly open, causing the HV to skyrocket, which will break the CRT neck.
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#15
10-14-2011, 03:31 AM
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Here are the pictures of the set.. The chassis is covered in years of dust..
     
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