Motorola VT-71 restoration (TS-4J chassis, Blonde cabinet) - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

DaveWM · #31 07-06-2010, 09:09 PM

very very nice work. great finish.

*zenithfan1* · #32 07-06-2010, 11:19 PM

Orange smorange! That finish looks great as it is! Great picture too! Looks great with the retrace mod, no annoying lines!

Now here's another exclamation point just because. !

kvflyer · #33 07-06-2010, 11:33 PM

Very, very nice. I have the more common mahogany version and I hope to start on it soon. I have most of the parts and like you wish I had another back. I should have one soon...

Adam · #34 07-07-2010, 12:57 AM

I just touched up the original finish on my VT-71 (because it wasn't really too bad to begin with) but it doesn't look nearly as nice. And I don't have a have back for either of my VT71s. I've come to the conclusion that they must have made loads of these sets, they're so common compared to other 1940s sets, but somehow the fine tuning knobs and backs still seem to be quite rare.

And I have yet to get my 7JP4 all the way into my reproduction mask, every time I get it jammed all the way in there the picture winds up being a little crooked, then I go to turn it and it comes out slightly again. Anyway, the picture on that set looks great.

bandersen · #35 07-07-2010, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam

I just touched up the original finish on my VT-71 (because it wasn't really too bad to begin with) but it doesn't look nearly as nice. And I don't have a have back for either of my VT71s. I've come to the conclusion that they must have made loads of these sets, they're so common compared to other 1940s sets, but somehow the fine tuning knobs and backs still seem to be quite rare.

And I have yet to get my 7JP4 all the way into my reproduction mask, every time I get it jammed all the way in there the picture winds up being a little crooked, then I go to turn it and it comes out slightly again. Anyway, the picture on that set looks great.

Thanks for all the kind words guys!

If I had it to do over again, I'd try to touch up the photo finish. The rest of the cabinet is worth refinishing I think though. The veneer is incredible looking - it really shimmers in the light. I asked around some veneer suppliers and the consensus was that it's blonde mahogany of some sort.

I bet most of the fine tuning knobs fell off. There's not much holding them on and they see a lot of action.

Maybe backs were removed for better ventilation ? The cabinet gets really hot above that ballast tube. I left the old asbestos in place to protect the wood. It should be easy to reproduce a back given some perforated sheet metal and a brake to make the 3/4" lip. Not that the lip is really necessary.

I had exactly the same experience with the mask in two sets !

danrulz98 · #36 07-07-2010, 02:05 AM

Awesome man, that's a cool little TV

bandersen · #37 07-07-2010, 02:52 AM

Thanks!

Reece · #38 07-07-2010, 06:55 AM

That's a great finish and a cool little TV. I'd love to find one like that to restore.

Question: I see the decal material you used was listed as "wood decals." Wonder how that material differs from the stuff that I use to make the gold ones?

jeyurkon · #39 07-07-2010, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bandersen

Thanks for all the kind words guys!

If I had it to do over again, I'd try to touch up the photo finish. The rest of the cabinet is worth refinishing I think though. The veneer is incredible looking - it really shimmers in the light. I asked around some veneer suppliers and the consensus was that it's blonde mahogany of some sort.
...

It definitely looks like mahogany. I was reading that mahogany was originally finished like that, with it's natural colors. Over time it takes on the reddish brown color. People liked that color but didn't want to wait forever for it to develop so furniture makers started using stains to produce the aged look that everyone liked.

How quickly it turns color might depend on the type of finish. I used linseed oil on some mulberry wood and it develops almost overnight. But with shellac, it seems to retain a lighter color longer.

It'll be interesting to see how yours ages. It looks really great and must really have beautiful depth considering that it shows up well in the photos!

John

Phil Nelson · #40 07-07-2010, 12:09 PM

Wonderful job, as usual. I like the photo with everything laid out for reassembly. At that point, you can imagine yourself back in the factory, ready to put together a brand new 1948 TV.

Phil Nelson

bandersen · #41 07-07-2010, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reece

That's a great finish and a cool little TV. I'd love to find one like that to restore.

Question: I see the decal material you used was listed as "wood decals." Wonder how that material differs from the stuff that I use to make the gold ones?

I've used them on surfaces coated with lacquer and enamel and they work just like any other water slide decal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeyurkon

...It'll be interesting to see how yours ages. It looks really great and must really have beautiful depth considering that it shows up well in the photos!

John

I hope not much! I like the way it looks now

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson

Wonderful job, as usual. I like the photo with everything laid out for reassembly. At that point, you can imagine yourself back in the factory, ready to put together a brand new 1948 TV.

Phil Nelson

Thanks. I actually put up a three part YouTube series showing how I put it back together.

I found a place (McNichols) that has the exact perforated steel for the back. $152 for 40 sq. ft. I can't image how they would ship that (or how I would cut it!). Luckily, they do offer a cutting service so, just for the heck of it, I requested a quote for 10 pieces @ 6" x 16". I'll let you all know what they have to say.

-

Reece · #42 07-07-2010, 03:58 PM

McMaster Carr will sell you lesser quantities for a lot less money. Depending on the gauge, cut it with tin snips. Use C-clamps and clamp edge between two pieces of wood and bend as required, hammering on another piece of wood against the metal to make the sharp 90.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/405/=7uzwm7

Adam · #43 07-07-2010, 04:20 PM

I'm interested to see how this turns out, I have 3 of these Motorolas, an RCA 721TS, a DuMont RA103 doghouse, and a Hoffman 610 that all need backs. (But I have only already restored 2 of the Motos, the 721ts, and the Hoffman.) I know Motorola used metal backs along with RCA on the 721, anyone know what material Hoffman and DuMont used?

bandersen · #44 07-07-2010, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reece

McMaster Carr will sell you lesser quantities for a lot less money. Depending on the gauge, cut it with tin snips. Use C-clamps and clamp edge between two pieces of wood and bend as required, hammering on another piece of wood against the metal to make the sharp 90.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/405/=7uzwm7

Seems about the same to me

The back is about 16 gauge steel.

McMaster $47.74 for 36" X 40" = $0.03 / sq. in.

McNichols $152.80 for 40" X 120" = $0.03 / sq. in.

On the other hand, the smaller piece is a heck of a lot easier to deal with

I got my quote. $163 for 10 pieces cut to size. So, $16.30 each + whatever shipping might be.

bandersen · #45 07-07-2010, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam

I'm interested to see how this turns out, I have 3 of these Motorolas, an RCA 721TS, a DuMont RA103 doghouse, and a Hoffman 610 that all need backs. (But I have only already restored 2 of the Motos, the 721ts, and the Hoffman.) I know Motorola used metal backs along with RCA on the 721, anyone know what material Hoffman and DuMont used?

Amptech sells metal backs for the 721: http://www.amptechsystems.com/reproductions.htm

I guess I could send them the Motorola dimensions and get a quote, but I figure it's going to be pricey.