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  #1  
Old 09-22-2005, 10:17 PM
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Huh?
 
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Unhappy Convergence Woes

Well, I got the DVD of convergence patterns from ETF and started going about converging my Slyvania. Problem is, I think I made it worse.

Followed the directions in the SAMs. A couple of the knobs on the convergence board didn't seem to do anything at all. I located the pincushion correction...thingie...and that didn't seem to make any difference either.

Convergence is good in the center but toward the edges it's just terrible. Am I doing something wrong? Well, duh, of course I am!

Here are some pics of the "progress". The "before" pic is in the thread "Got The Sylvania. The rest are after I started messing with it. There's a closeup of the corner so you'll see what I mean.

Thanks for any help!

veg
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2005, 11:31 PM
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Chad Hauris Chad Hauris is offline
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Each of the controls on the convergence board should have some effect on the picture. If turning a control doesn't do anything there may be an open connection in the pot.

Looks like the blue is lined up good but the red/green horizontal lines controls on the left and right sides are what needs adjusting the most.
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2005, 11:16 AM
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It's hard to tell from an off-center photo which lines are really straight - since the red and green fall on top of each other at left and right, I'd be tempted to suspect one of the blue controls is open that would get blue to be on top of red and green - but what do I know? Happy hunting!
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2005, 02:53 PM
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Hey, is there a convergence jpg that could be used on a PC? I was thinking you could make it the desktop pic and go to it...

Dumb Idea?


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  #5  
Old 09-23-2005, 03:59 PM
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If your PC has an NTSC video baseband output, you can use that directly on a set with video in, or by going into a VCR and using its channel 3 output. There are CDs and DVDs of test patterns, but for convergence you can just use the computer Paint program and draw a black background with some white lines.
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2005, 11:30 PM
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Maybe a dumb question, but I've done it myself: is the covergence board plugged in? I think it would be further out if not, but...
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  #7  
Old 09-24-2005, 10:14 PM
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Yep, the board is plugged in. As I say, only some of the knobs don't seem to do anything; others work just fine. Can I get replacements?

I did the static convergence before I started messing around on the board.

veg
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  #8  
Old 09-24-2005, 10:58 PM
swanson
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Most vintage color tv's have either a triple or quad
section selenium diode pack installed on the
convergence board for peak detection and waveshaping.
I think the problem you are seeing with the blue
lines sagging at both sides is caused by this diode
either being open or shorted or leaky.I can't
remember which failure mode it is but it's one
of them.These diodes develop the same problems
that the horiz.afc diode unit does.I think you
could use regular 1N4148 or 1N4007 silicon
diodes in place of the multisection selenium
to see if it fixes the problem.Otherwise you
could have an open control which has been
mentioned in the previous posts.Those controls
are wirewound and are relatively fragile especially
if they have not been operated in decades.
Regards,
Swanson
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  #9  
Old 09-24-2005, 11:15 PM
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Well I think I found the issue with My NEC monitor, I found a 2 X 2 board on the back of the tube yoke area with five 1 turn pots. Adjustments don't do much, but if I push on one of the pots, convergence is perfect. I'm betting its a cracked solder joint...

Unfortunatly there are 6 wraped and soldered wires that make it imposible to lean up and resolder. The wires go into the tube yoke area. I'll see about desoldering them tomorrow.


Anything I shold be discharging in the area before going in? I know there has to be some HV in there some where waiting to bite...
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  #10  
Old 09-25-2005, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlawmws
Well I think I found the issue with My NEC monitor, I found a 2 X 2 board on the back of the tube yoke area with five 1 turn pots. Adjustments don't do much, but if I push on one of the pots, convergence is perfect. I'm betting its a cracked solder joint...

Unfortunatly there are 6 wraped and soldered wires that make it imposible to lean up and resolder. The wires go into the tube yoke area. I'll see about desoldering them tomorrow.


Anything I shold be discharging in the area before going in? I know there has to be some HV in there some where waiting to bite...
i heat the pins from the top and feed solder to the bottom of the joint.
common problem.
the bleeder in the fly will likely discharge the hv.
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  #11  
Old 09-25-2005, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8adu
i heat the pins from the top and feed solder to the bottom of the joint.
common problem.
the bleeder in the fly will likely discharge the hv.

Unfortunatly, no access to pins from the top.

These pots are square pots with pins out the bottom. One turn of adjustment would be being generous...
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  #12  
Old 09-25-2005, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veg-o-matic
Yep, the board is plugged in. As I say, only some of the knobs don't seem to do anything; others work just fine. Can I get replacements?

I did the static convergence before I started messing around on the board.

veg
you most likely have some bad pots,bad selenium rectfier,or both.
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  #13  
Old 09-28-2005, 09:56 AM
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My CTC-5 has this dot size issue, with red being larger. I was concerned about the crt, though all 3 guns test good. Somebody is going to tell us what it means.

You can find replacement controls. For the DuMont I swapped them off of a used RCA board. They are not all the same value so you need to get the correct ones. I bet Moyers carries just what you need.
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  #14  
Old 09-28-2005, 01:19 PM
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Red spot size will be somewhat larger in tubes where the red needs more drive than the green and blue, especially on strong white dots. I would expect the red spot gets more reasonable when you turn down the contrast. If the effect is not bad on ordinary pictures (as opposed to hard-driven dot pattern), I wouldn't worry about it.
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