GE Portacolor II knob

[andy]

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[andy]

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[andy]

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[andy]

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[andy]

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[DaveWM]

did not realize there was a HV focus dot matrix type. I agree the slotted type is worse than the orig large bore 11SP22 triads. What is the tube number, I will have to keep an eye open for one, maybe replace the sloted if it ever dies.

[andy]

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[zeno]

PC 2's are rare birds. They also put that chassis in a 19" set
also fairly rare. For the knobs its prob best to get a set of four
from a similar GE & reindex the numbers if needed.

Behind the HOT is a big white cap. I would strongly recommend updating
it. Newer ones were european IIRC & didnt come apart. The OEM's
were trouble & made us $$$$.
If it opens will take out fuse, HOT, sometimes the FBT & vert module.

GE was the only sets I have seen with "backwards" tint controls
so the slider issue doesnt surprise me. Even my 3 yr old GE stove
has backwards oven temp up-down buttons, up on left, down on right !
Strange cats at GE

73 Zeno

[andy]

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[andy]

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[Findm-Keepm]

Give George over at talonix a try - he may have your knob. You have to use their contact form, but I know they have GE, RCA and some zenith stuff. I got a power switch for my Quasar WITD from them. Lots of off-web stock, I guess. IIRC, knobs are either ES/ET/EP 43 or 49 prefixed parts.

Oh, and GE had a service bulletin on the across-the-line caps. UL requires them to be 400V/dual AC-rated, and GE specified a nice dark blue Paktron film cap. We replaced them by the tons for a while, all free under the service bulletin. One house fire, and the UL got all wanky....

I've got a whole box of those 1000V Elmenco white ceramic bombs. The box is oil soaked, and none of the caps has ever been used or exposed to high temps. Mine are all from Zenith OEM bags. Zenith used them in the boost circuits, and we used Orange drop 1600V replacements.

[DaveWM]

you can transplant the center part to an existing knob, there is a spring clip type retainer, you must destroy the shaft to remove it, you do this to the knob with the broken handle, saving the numbers. Then from the donor you have to destroy the metal retainer to separate the donor shaft from the channel part.
just make sure you are only destroying the part that is already broken. I tried to see if I could get the metal retainer off, no way. you have to break the metal ring or the plastic shaft.

The idea is to save your channel indicator which matches and only use a new donor shaft with the part you turn. the reason... wait for it....

sometimes the channels don't match up, that's right it may look like a perfect match but channel 3 will show as channel 4 etc...

the D retainer is not consistent, so you can find a perfect set of knobs and have it still not be right. However the donating process worked, there is a molded in detent that locks the two parts and that is consistent, just not the actual numbering on the dial. I know cause I just went thru this on a PC with a busted knob handle.

it sounds confusing until you get the knobs in front of you.

so if you have a supply of knobs just look for a matching inside part, that way you have more to choose from.

[Findm-Keepm]

What is the outside diameter of the knob? Turns out, I've got my dad's old knob box and a ton of GE knobs. Lemme know...

[andy]

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[Findm-Keepm]

Andy,

I had no luck with my GE stash or used knobs. I found some repair lit that shows your PCII - attached are the pertinent info for part numbers. Maybe Moyers or talonix might have your knobs.

Cheers,