[rca2000]

As I have pprobably fixed over a THOUSAND of these sets. And YES-- it is worth fixing!! The CRT is probably in great shape, as they nearly always are in these sets. The flyback, tuner and other expensive parts are likewise probably fine.

Now-- HERE is what you will need to get "er goin'

The reason that the fuse blew, and does NOT now-- the big resistor behind it, is most likely open. This is a 1.8 ohm -15watt resistor.

IT blew, because the chopper (switcher) transistor is bad. it is on a small heatsink, near the resistor and input cap. I GUARNTEE it is shorted. The RCA # is 200165. The generic # is SGSIF461. Do NOT use an NTE sub!!

Also-- the small chip, the switch-mode controller ic, will need to be replaced too. Is is right below the chopper transistor. A 16pin DIP. # 200419, or TEA2261

NOW-- there are 2 capacitors that MUST be replaced, or the parts WILL blow again, VERY soon!! There is a 2.2 uf cap, rated at 100volts or possibly 50 volts. (it is ok to use either, the voltage never goes over about 20 here.) It is next to the ic. REPLACE it!!

Also, right in front of the heatsink, will be another cap. it will either be a 39uf at 100v or a 47uf at 50 volt cap. REPLACE it with a 47uf at 50 volt cap.

Altogether-- the parts will most likely be less than $20 You WILL have a very nice set when you are done.

if, after you get the power supply running, you have a "chirp, chirp, chirp" and then nothing--The horiz. out is probably bad. In THIS chassis, it goes bad most often because of a bad yoke-return capaciror, or pincushion capacitor near the flyback. It is usually a blue or grey rectangular item, with a rating of ".48j250" or such. The pin cap is a smaller one, near the output sink and is labelled ".056j400" or such. If you have a bad h-out-- they are most likely bad.

Good luck, I own 2 ctc169's and would NOT trade them for a new RCA set!!