[kbmuri]

Ok, I pulled the set away from the wall and tried the magnet suggestions. First of all I have two Capehart CX33 chassis. One in this 325 and also one in my 333. It was the 333 that had the "USE NO ION TRAP" sticker, it has a 17BP4A. So I was wrong about saying for sure that the 16RP4 is aluminized, truth is I don't know. The 325 has a completely unmarked 16-inch tube, I presumed it's a 16RP4 as that's what the documents call for in this set. Maybe it's an A, maybe it isn't. Original owner says it worked at one point.

I "borrowed" the ion trap from the Magnavox's 10BP4. Installed it on the Capehart, rotated and slid it in every possible position and orientation, no raster of any kind anywhere. With the ion trap installed, in every orientation and position I tried, the white line and white dot never appeared when turning the set off. I took the ion trap back off. No raster again of course, but the white line and dot on power-off reappeared.

One would think that the resting white dot 4 or 5 seconds after power-off would not be being deflected, and would pretty much indicate the resting aim of the gun. Since it hits pretty near center without an ion trap, can I assume it's the type that doesn't need one?

I can't easily put the 333's 17BP4A into this chassis, the mounting hardware would have to change too. But I could probably put the 16RP4 into the 333 with a little padding to lift it up in front. That would certainly put an end to the issue of whether or not the 16RP4 is good or not, and if it's an ion-trap model or not. Might be worth doing. The 333 is on all original paper caps, and new electrolytics only bridged over the originals. It was something I tried 6 years ago without studying the science first. But it does produce a freaky kind of raster and snow. It would certainly test the other tube to my satisfaction.

I should probably pick up a CRT tester.