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Before I fry myself...
Just a few more questions.
Chad, thanks for the good instructions. Does the wire on the probe and the alligator-clip wire have to be a certain gauge? My meter is like a 10 buck digital thing, and I have a bunch of alligator-clip jumper wires that I got at Radio Shack. They don't seem particularly hefty to me.
Will the CRT grounding spring be obvious to a simpleton like me? There's apparently a ground wire that needs to be disconnected before I can remove the chassis, but the SAMS doesn't say where 'tis.
Okay. Assuming I get the chassis out without killing myself (about 50/50, I think), how do I re-discharge the pic tube when I put everything back in? I couldn't just plug the anode thingie back in the hole?
As for functionality, I still have sound. The picture tube is dark; the front, at least. Don't remember checking to see if the filaments were lit. I don't think any of the tubes on the chroma board were lit, but others were. This happened last night, and the mind is going. There were definitely tubes lit on the sound and deflection boards. After that initial puff of smoke, no more and no more burny smells.
I don't know if I'd get anything with the switch in service mode. As I say, when I blew it up, I turned it off and walked away...
Is it really going to be a pain to put in new tube sockets? I was thinking with the chassis out, it'd be a simple desolder-pull/replace-resolder. 'Course I've never done this before, so what do I know? I think there are three sockets that need to be replaced.
Oh, and just for good measure, I looked at the flyback and it's clean enough to eat off of. I know these cause a lot of trouble. I also felt the cans with the electrolytics in 'em and they were nice and cool.
veg
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