|
I did it in a dim room, but will do again at night to get it pitch black.
I did notice something when doing the G2s. I turned them all down, but the grayscale pattern I had up was tinted green. Is that supposed to happen? The green was pretty dark and when raising the green G2, it got a brighter green. Once I got that, I brought up the red til it was pretty much yellow and then the blue til it looked like a grayscale. I went back and forth with them until I saw no colors in the gray areas. From there I took the red tap from Hi to Med and the whites lost the red tint. So now the white are white and the grays are gray.
I find that when I adjust the controls according to the calibration DVD, it is too dim for normal viewing, so I adjust by eye from there. The DVD worked on a Toshiba 50" projection back in 2000 and a 65" projection in 2002. It also worked on all flatscreens, but I guess it wasn't designed for anything older.
I had the darn convergence pretty damn near perfect, but the center dot pattern showed it was off, so I did the center convergence and tried to touch up the rest. Didn't go as planned and now I have more areas with poor convergence. I guess the center convergence had a bigger effect on overall convergence than I thought it would. I would have left it as it was had I known.
I'll let you know how it goes when I do it in a completely dark room.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL
Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
|