Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanAlley
I can do that.
Any idea which board could alter tint? I see it on the schematic at the subcarrier and going to the chroma. Is it the subcarrier altering or is the chroma also able to alter it if something is wrong on the board?
I think I'm also going to pull each board, deoxit all the contacts on chassis and boards. I also noticed that when I look at pics of the chassis when I first got it, each board had 2 blue tubes on unused pins. No doubt used to secure the boards, but are these a real necessity or more for shipping? I really can't remember where I put them as I didn't put them back on the modules.
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Again, I'm not really that familiar with these sets to the point I can offer a lot of specific advice on them.
Someone else will have to comment on which board does what.
I definitely agree with the idea of cleaning board edge contacts though. That can solve a lot of problems.
A related thing to check is the solder joints on any connectors that get stress. If you have edge contacts that slide into connectors, those connectors will be prone to cracked solder joints, and that is a common cause of intermittent issues because they can make good contact until they heat up, and then the heat causes things to warp and push apart and issues start to show up.
It's not a slam-dunk, but it is a common kind of fault and worth just reflowing.
If I'm working on an old set (regardless of the make), I will generally do three things before I bother even turning on. I check and replace any bad electrolytics, I use contact cleaner and fader lube on every contact, switch, pot, fader, jack on the set, and I reflow every single connector, socket or large heavy component (like a transformer) on the PCB.
My time is too valuable to chase my tail over a cracked solder joint if you know what I mean.