Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanAlley
I'm assuming a CCII has the DC Restore. Any idea what board it would be on (Chroma, Video IF, Video Processor...)?
I'm confident the G2 is set properly. When fed a good signal, the set produces a very good image, brightness, contrast and color. While the whites aren't has pure as I'd like, no combination of the three color taps will give a pure white. The best I can do is a white that's a bit bluer (cooler) than it should be.
If you look back through threads from around 2013, you'll find many pages of back and forth trying to solve the jailbars. I was told it was ringing, but when I scope the brightness circuit and see the wave of ringing, many would say it doesn't look like it or that wouldn't cause your issue. It was like that for just about all possible ringing sources, so I just gave up.
Thanks for you input!
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The color tracking could just be the way you set the balance up. To dial it in really good, I think it takes a colorimeter.
Typically, you can get very good tracking by going back and forth between 20 IRE and 120 IRE with the background and drive adjustments, starting from wherever the manual tells you to. You can use something like HFCR and a cheap meter from the 90s to dial it in, and then do a greyscale test.
In most cases, I find that the potentiometers they provide from the factory do not have an adequate number of turns to really dial in the color, and they will often skip over the sweet spots very easily. Especially the color transistions on the backgrounds tend to be extremely fussy because the color tracking at low light is a lot worse. However, a small mistake in the bias controls can translate into a larger error at higher IRE levels, forcing you to compensate and throwing off your tracking.
If you care about it, you should be able to get it better than "looks too blue" if you want.
As for the jailbars, I have had a lot of annoying jailbar issues I could never solve, but none of them looked that severe. I would maybe look at the value of the caps on the snubber and damper diode on the horizontal yoke, assuming that they exist, or something like that exists on your set. Those are there specifically to suppress ringing. Just a thought, and I am not really familiar with you set. I generally work on stuff later than 1975.