Quote:
Originally Posted by old_tv_nut
All US analog sets are/were 60 field per second, 525 line per frame scanning only.
(If you want to get picky about that statement, yes, some, or maybe quite a few, chassis might be adjustable to European 50 Hz / 625 lines, but nothing like HDTV rates.)
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To add to that there is usually no advantage to running a US-made NTSC TV set at PAL/CCIR scan rates since the video amps in US sets (assuming video injection is used)tend to have less bandwidth than PAL sets (the RF/IF chain is usually the worst bandwdith bottleneck). The higher the video frequency the finer the details resolved and US sets usually didn't run as high of frequencies as PAL sets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Notimetolooz
Of course removing the CRT and putting it back in a color set this size is quite a project.
Since you haven't worked on vintage color set before and don't have the equipment needed to adjust them, I recommend that you, as the best as you can, not remove the yoke assembly and other items on the CRT neck. There are many mechanical adjustments there. Hopefully most of those items can be unplugged from the chassis.
I remember seeing a video online a couple of years ago where someone had tried the "CRT in the sun with wood wedges" to remove a cataract. It ended with a plastic garbage can filled with broken CRT glass. You have to be very careful if you use wedges, the CRT always has about 15 lbs per square inch atmospheric pressure on it, it can't take much more, especially if any force is applied to a small area like a wedge.
https://www.earlytelevision.org/Deks...ug_harland.htm
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The only difference between a CRT swap in a 23" combo and a 23" tabletop is the weight you have to move. The procedure it's self isn't that hard. Basically you have to disconnect the convergence board, and deflection yoke from the main TV chassis, the HV lead and CRT socket from the CRT, then pull the TV knobs and unmount the tuner/front controls sub-chassis from the cabinet (there are a couple of screws on either side of the power interlock on the main chassis that you slip the tuner sub-chassis into and tighten to lock the tuner sub-chassis to the main chassis for servicing), disconnect any other harnesses holding the main TV chassis into the cabinet, unbolt the main chassis and remove it, then flip the cabinet onto it's face (if the floor isn't carpeted lay down a blanket to avoid scratching the cabinet), unbolt the convergence panel at the top back of the cabinet and remove the spring that tethers the cable to the cabinet, then remove the degaussing shield behind the CRT followed by the CRT.
Leaving the neck hardware on the CRT is a fairly good suggestion (I've done it many times), but be careful not to mash up the convergence board or components on it. You want something deeper than a 5 Gal bucket to use as a stand during cataract removal to avoid crunching the convergence board.
On a set I'm familiar with I can yank the CRT in under 15 min if all my tools are on hand and the set is stock (sometimes people tack in their own audio inputs, outputs, or other goofy junk that complicates chassis removal).