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The UHF tuner probably has decent heater winding current capacity.
You still get analog UHF out where you are at? Our last ones were gone by 2014.
Connecting the transformer to line with a light bulb in series is probably a better safety measure than a fuse.
The original electrolytic caps are almost certainly what killed your first transformer...the high leakage current overloaded the B+ winding and smoked it happens all the time on sets people try to run on original caps.
The thing about testing capacitors is most testers check capacitance at less than 9V....these caps usually work fine at 9V but in the TV have as much as 450V on them....many of these caps don't develop leakage current unless they have 25-200V on them (depends on the cap and the life it's had)...some line powered capacitor testers (like my Heathkit C3) can test for leakage at as high as 450VDC.
I know first hand that trying to use original electrolytic capacitors in a pre-1965 TV is a fools errand. I have Zenith's first c1961 consumer color TV the 29JC20...my set partially worked when brought up on a variac so I changed the paper caps in it, tested the lytics and only changed the lytic sections that measured leaky or open on my Heathkit...it was great for a few weeks then one of the good lytic sections died, I changed that and in a few weeks another 1-2 died, and a few weeks later when the next one died I finally just changed all the lytics to be done with that nonsense.
Do not power your TV chassis with the new transformer until you have replaced the electrolytic caps.
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