Well, more cleaning. There was some actual dust ball’s(bunnies to some) still hiding on the chassis. Well, I pulled and tested tubes and found a good mix match, so this set’s been well used. No signs of new CRT so I was hoping it was good, or that tags were takin off the replacement. A number of tubes were in ok shape. None that tested real good except the hv rectifier. Had 5 or so that needed changing. Still got one in that I don’t have on hand, and of course, it’s the worst out of all of them. The Horizontal Output 6BG6G, V15 on the sams, is only at 20%. I don’t know how the set actually works with it….oop’s
, your not supposed to know that yet…
Anyway’s, on to the close inspection under the chassis. I initially found that the L18 coil was open. The end of the plastic wrap thing, around the coil was peeled away, and 2 thin coil wires were sticking out. Soldered them together, rechecked, and I had my 36ohms of resistance.
I also found the fuse underneath was bad. Odd though, it doesn’t appear blown(blackened), it just looks like it wore out, and a section just slowly cooked away…
There was also an original cap, that wasn’t connected on one end. I think the previous service guy accidently left it out, because it looked connected, but a poke was all it took to show it wasn’t. That was cap C58 on the sams.
Welp, On with the usual re-cap! I changed all the old wax/paper and the few plastic caps that someone previously put in. Also put brand new E-caps in as well. Had to relocate some, hopefully that’s all right. I also replaced a number of resistors. As I pulled the caps out, I was testing the resistors that were then disconnected from the circuit on one lead.
Did my final under chassis checks’ and then replaced the fuse. I did not have the right fuse on hand, so I alligator clipped the lead to my meter, since that shouldn’t have more than 250v on it. (original fuse250v, .25amp).
Attached the speaker, and just to be safe, got the dim bulb tester out again and powered up using that. I got the same as before. I did hear the hv spool up some, but didn’t quite sound right. Everything was stable and nothing smoked or blew up so I hooked it to full power.
That got me a rastor, but still very little sound. After adjusting the ion trap a bit, I figured I got lucky with this 10BP4. It’s the brightest one I’ve seen!
And I’ve got 2 other sets that use them. Anyway’s I hooked up some signal…the SNES! After stabilizing the vertical, I had to stabilize the horizontal from the back of the chassis. Horizontal does actually lock, but is sometimes shaky. Picture, actually looks GREAT. Great linearity, great contrast, pretty sharp and crisp. I’ve got to get some photo’s of that, but there is an issue.
Picture is bloomed out. When messing with the controls, it will sometimes zoom out a bit then zoom back in and if you knock vert or horz off you can see the surrounding edges then, that can’t normally be seen when it’s stable. Is that due to the real low value hor-output tube?
Another question about this…I had my meter connected to the line that the fuse is on. There is nothing on the sams (which I’m using) or the rider’s about the voltage on this line. The fuse is rated 250 but the line is actually at about 350v. Should it be 250v or is it high? Would this be part of my blooming issue?
And, how could I get more bass, and a little more volume out of the sound? I’ve got good sound, but I figured it’d get a little louder than it does. It doesn’t even go into distortion…if I’m remembering correct.
Sam's:
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/A...Sams_100-1.pdf
Rider's
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/a..._rider_tv4.pdf
As I said before, I need to get more pic's. Here's some before shots...and a few during that only show a pile of old caps sitting outside the chassis