Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon A.
I wouldn't feel safe doing that, cheap solder could mean cold joints later on, especially bad where safety caps are concerned.
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60/40 rosin core is kind of hard to screw-up, really, and is the only thing you should use when reworking vintage sets because if you slap some 63/37 or 60/35/2 into a formerly 60/40 joint you get all kinds of FUN solidification point alterations... Obviously if you're overhauling a vintage tek you need to use silver-bearing stuff or you'll do bad things to the beautiful silver on ceramic strips they use...
I agree that "cheap" silver-bearing or RoHS no-lead stuff that is "multicore" warrants some scrutiny before purchasing, but not 60/40. Mainly the RoHS stuff because the cheaper it is the more likely it is to have tin-whisker issues...