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Originally Posted by RetroHacker
... I cut the can off at the base, and mounted one of the new caps by drilling holes through the old base and mounting it on top - the other two were snap-type electrolytics that I was able to zip-tie to the chassis underneath and wire up. ...
I proceeded to cut off the other can, and replace it with new components as well. I re-purposed one of the lugs as a negative terminal and mounted the smallest cap under the chassis, allowing me to attach the other three above and wire them neatly.
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This is exactly how I've replaced can caps. Using the old cap terminals as a terminal strip, with the bigger caps on top, leads passing thru small holes I drilled next to the respective terminal. If I don't have the new caps on top, I'll use some sheet insulation to cover the terminal stubs, so my fingers don't find B+. Using one of the repurposed terminals for the common negative allows me to connect that negative to a point in the circuit to avoid cap recharge ripple current from circulating in the chassis, thus avoiding any ground loops.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by old_coot88
My very first thought looking at the rear view of the chassis was "Where's the regulator tube?", hoping it wasn't the dreaded pulse-feedback imbroglio. But it looks like it is.
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Is it possible, without too much agony, to change the HV circuit so it uses a regulator tube?